Dear fellow traveler, if you’re looking for yet another delightful “Top 10 Things to do in Barcelona list,” you have opened the wrong page. For starters, you will notice – if you have any talent for counting at all – that this list does not contain ten items. A list of ten would suggest a sense of completeness and order that simply does not exist in this wretched world. These recommendations are culled from my own harrowing experiences, though I have included a few locations I have not yet visited, solely because I have heard whispers of their greatness and feel a desperate, perhaps foolish, urge to see them for myself before something goes horribly wrong.
I must caution you: while the tone of this guide is somewhat grim, the logistical information contained within is – most distressingly – entirely accurate. I have meticulously recorded prices and logistical advice with a level of accuracy that is frankly exhausting. Every detail was correct at the time this document was published, though in a world as unstable as ours, accurate is a word that should always be whispered with a note of caution. You may use this information to plan your journey with terrifying efficiency, though why you would want to arrive at your destination any sooner is a mystery that I have no desire to solve.
There are places in this world that, despite their inherent qualities, manage to trick people into believing they are cheerful. Barcelona, with its dazzling sunshine and its unnervingly colorful architecture, is one of the most cunning of these places. This article dares to offer a list of the best things to do. I must caution you, fellow traveler, that these are not good things, but merely the most well-known and therefore unavoidable sites. Therefore, approach this list not with the anticipation of pleasure, but with the necessary resignation that any time spent in a city as spectacularly overwhelming as Barcelona is bound to involve more confusion and loss than joy. Read on, if you must, but do not say I failed to give you a sufficient warning. Dark and difficult times lie ahead.
If this is your first stop in Spain, read this Cautionary Travel Guide.
Best Things to See and Do in Barcelona (And Why They Might Disappoint You)
In any given metropolis, there is a list of Best Things to See and Do, an optimistic and misleading phrase that suggests these activities will be entirely delightful and without peril. Such a list, however, is merely a catalog of places where one can witness something curious, or perhaps even perform a curious deed oneself. One should approach this list with caution and a healthy dose of suspicion, as no one can truly promise that what you see and do will be anything but an experience of dreadful consequence.
While I endeavor to furnish you with the costs of regular adult admission for the various locales of interest, you must understand that the proprietors of these places will almost certainly offer lesser prices for children, students, the elderly, and other groups in order to make a simple transaction more complicated. Additionally, many sights offer more free admission days and hours than one can shake a stick at. You should also be aware of the Barcelona Card, which permits free access to an alarming number of sights and the local public transportation.
It is with a heavy heart that I must also warn you that tickets to many of Barcelona’s attractions, particularly those featuring the architecture of a certain Gaudí, should be purchased weeks or months ahead of time.
The Frightful Ruins and Architectural Misfortunes of Antoni Gaudí
This section is dedicated to the unsettling, impractical, and frankly terrifying architectural excesses of Antoni Gaudí and his contemporaries. These structures are not pleasant to look at, and they demand both your time and an excessive amount of your hard-earned money.
Stand before the perpetual construction site of the Sagrada Família
- What the guides say: A very large stone forest that is not yet finished, this basilica is a collection of organic towers and intricate facades. Inside, stained glass creates a light effect known as a kaleidoscopic glow. It remains a distinctive symbol of the Barcelona skyline, despite the fact that construction has been occurring since 1882.
- What they don’t tell you: A towering, skeletal monument to the idea of a Very Difficult and Never-Ending Task. You will gaze upon its nature-inspired, dreadful facade, its stone looking like melted wax, and realize that its very design – a century and a half in the making – is a testament to the fact that some grand projects are doomed to be forever incomplete.
- Go for: The ultimate masterpiece of Antoni Gaudí; an architectural marvel combining Gothic and Art Nouveau forms with a profound forest-like interior.
- Cost: Approximately €26 – €36 (Basic vs. Towers); includes audioguide.
- Planning Tip: Tickets sell out weeks in advance; booking online is mandatory to avoid disappointment.
- Construction: It has been under construction for over 140 years, longer than it took to build the Great Pyramids.
- Lighting: Visit in the late afternoon; the sun hits the stained glass on the Nativity side, flooding the nave with warm oranges and reds.
- Detail: Look for the magic square on the Passion Facade – its rows and columns always add up to 33, the age of Christ at his death.
- Verdict: It is a kaleidoscopic trap of magic squares and infinite construction. Go anyway; the light is the only thing not under renovation.
Attempt to relax in Gaudí’s Park Güell
- What the guides say: Originally intended to be a luxury housing estate, this area is now a public park featuring colorful mosaics and undulating stone. It contains gingerbread-style gatehouses and a large tiled lizard, both of which are frequently photographed. The park serves as a primary example of how landscape and architecture can be placed in the same location.
- What they don’t tell you: This public space, designed by the master of all things unsettlingly organic, Antoni Gaudí, is a bewildering landscape of swirling stone, mosaic lizard statues, and gingerbread-house gatehouses. You will be forced to stand shoulder-to-shoulder with hundreds of other unfortunate souls, all vying for a glimpse of this crowded, chaotic, and frankly quite peculiar vision of a public park. O’Doyle rules!
- Go for: Whimsical landscaping, the famous gingerbread-style gatehouses, and the mosaic-covered serpentine bench.
- Cost: Approximately €18.
- Planning Tip: Plan ahead to get your timed-entry tickets online. General admission does not include a tour, but you can use the app for directions as well as audio and written descriptions of most sights. Options that include guided tours are also available for more of your hard-earned money. Do yourself a favour and download the official app ahead of time.
- Original Purpose: It was intended to be a luxury housing estate, but the project failed commercially, eventually becoming a public park.
- Photography: Arrive at the Monumental Zone at sunrise or sunset for the best light over the city and the iconic salamander (El Drac).
- Dress Code: Wear sturdy walking shoes; the park is built on a hill and involves significant inclines and uneven terrain.
- Hidden Gem: Walk up to the Three Crosses (Turó de les Tres Creus) for the highest point in the park and 360-degree views.
- Verdict: You will stand shoulder-to-shoulder with thousands to see a tiled lizard. It is a colorful, uphill struggle you simply must endure.
Confront the bone-like facades of Casa Batlló
- What the guides say: Known by the locals as theHouse of Bones” due to its skeletal balconies, this building features a roof that resembles the scales of a dragon. There are almost no straight lines inside, as the architect favored fluid designs. It is located on the Block of Discord, a name given to a street where architects disagreed on what a house should look like.
- What they don’t tell you: Gaudí’s work on this apartment building is not a comfortable spectacle. Its balcony railings resemble unsettling, bleached skulls, and the roof scales evoke some forgotten, dreadful dragon. It is an architectural reminder that something beautiful can, with a slight adjustment, become horrifying.
- Go for: The House of Bones; a facade of iridescent scales and balconies that resemble skulls, celebrating the legend of Saint George.
- Cost: From approximately €29 (includes audio and augmented reality guide).
- Planning Tip: Plan ahead to get your timed-entry tickets online. Options including guided tours, night visits, or other specialty tickets are also available for more of your hard-earned money. Do yourself a favour and download the official app ahead of time.
- Design: There are virtually no straight lines in the house; Gaudí believed nature – his primary inspiration – doesn’t use them.
- Photography: The blue-tiled light well (patio of lights) creates an incredible gradient effect for vertical photos.
- Symbolism: The roof represents the back of the dragon slain by Saint George, the patron saint of Catalonia.
- Verdict: The House of Bones is a skeletal reminder of architectural horror. Pay the exorbitant fee to see beauty bordering on the macabre.
Contemplate the quarry-like exterior of La Pedrera – Casa Milà
- What the guides say: This apartment building features an undulating stone facade and chimneys that resemble warriors. The rooftop provides a 360-degree view of the Eixample district, and the attic contains models of the building’s structural framework. It is often compared to a natural rock formation, although it is made of materials brought there by people.
- What they don’t tell you: This apartment block is not so much built as carved, its exterior resembling the pale, shifting sand of a desolate beach or, perhaps more accurately, a fossilized wave. The roof, with its bizarre, helmeted chimney figures, suggests a silent, stationary army of forgotten gargoyles.
- Go for: The undulating stone exterior and the Warrior Rooftop featuring surreal chimneys that inspired Star Wars helmet designs.
- Cost: From approximately €25 (includes video guide).
- Planning Tip: Plan ahead to get your timed-entry tickets online. Options including guided tours, sunrise visits, night visits, and other specialty tickets are also available for more of your hard-earned money.
- Innovation: It was the first house in Barcelona with an underground garage and a revolutionary self-supporting stone facade.
- Night Visit: Consider the Night Experience which includes a light show on the rooftop chimneys and a glass of cava.
- The Attic: The Whale Attic (Espai Gaudí) features 270 catenary arches and houses a museum dedicated to Gaudí’s structural methods.
- Best Time: Late afternoon allows you to see the roof during the Golden Hour when the stone glows.
- Verdict: Ascend to the roof at sunset to feel properly insignificant.
Regret your arrival at Palau Güell
- What the guides say: This early palace was built for a patron named Eusebi Güell and features a central hall with a perforated dome designed to look like a night sky. The roof is covered in brightly colored, ceramic-clad chimneys. It is described as being darker and more Gothic than the architect’s later projects, which were considerably more orange and green.
- What they don’t tell you: You will ascend this eccentric architect’s early, brooding creation, noting the somber stone, the dark wood, and the unsettling ironwork. The interior, with its unusual parabolic arches and elaborate roof chimneys, is less a home and more a wealthy person’s very strange, very permanent fantasy. You will feel as though you are a guest who has arrived on the wrong day, and that the entire building is silently urging you to leave.
- Go for: An early Gaudí masterpiece near La Rambla, showcasing dark wood, ornate ironwork, and a subterranean stable.
- Cost: Approximately €15.
- Contrast: Unlike his later colorful works, this palace is moody, masculine, and heavily influenced by Islamic (Mudejar) architecture.
- The Roof: Even early in his career, Gaudí used the roof as a forest of 20 colorful, broken-tile (trencadís) chimneys.
- Accessibility: It is often less crowded than the other Gaudí houses, making it a great last-minute cultural stop.
- Acoustics: Check for organ concerts; the central hall was designed with incredible acoustics for the Güell family’s musical evenings.
- Verdict: It feels like a wealthy man’s nightmare that is quietly urging you to leave. Go for the chimneys; stay for the feeling of being an unwelcome guest.
Be reminded that true genius often borders on the wildly impractical at Casa Vicens Gaudí
- What the guides say: This was the architect’s first major commission and features checkerboard tiles and floral motifs. It shows heavy Orientalist and Mudéjar influences, which were popular at the time. After being restored, it was opened to the public, allowing people to see the early work of a man who would later design many more buildings in the same city.
- What they don’t tell you: You will stand outside this house, the very first house designed by the aforementioned eccentric architect, and observe its striking exterior of vibrant tiles and unusual brickwork. It is so riotous in its decoration that it appears to be a house attempting to disguise itself as a particularly colourful, somewhat frantic confectionery.
- Go for: Gaudí’s first major house project, featuring vibrant green and white tiles and heavy Orientalist/Neo-Mudéjar influence.
- Cost: From approximately €19.
- Planning Tip: There are also options for early access, guided visits, and churros. If tickets are not sold out, you may also be able to buy tickets at the ticket office for a higher cost.
- Theme: The yellow flowers on the tiles are marigolds that Gaudí saw growing on the site before construction.
- Restoration: It only opened to the public in 2017 after an award-winning restoration, so the colors are incredibly vivid.
- Photography: The smoking room is one of the most intricately decorated ceilings in Barcelona – bring a wide-angle lens.
- Location: Situated in Gràcia, it offers a quieter, more local vibe than the bustling Passeig de Gràcia.
- Verdict: A frantic, tiled confectionery that was his first major mistake, and it is vibrant enough to make your eyes ache with delight.
Visit the Hospital de Sant Pau and be appalled by its beauty
- What the guides say: Designed by Lluís Domènech i Montaner, this former hospital consists of several gardens and ornate pavilions. It is the largest Art Nouveau site in existence. The tilework and stained glass were included because the architect believed that looking at beautiful things would assist patients in the process of not being sick anymore.
- What they don’t tell you: An old, fully functioning hospital complex designed in the breathtaking Modernisme style. It is all arches, stained glass, and beautiful tilework – a dreadful juxtaposition of architectural magnificence and human sickness. One should not have to be so well-housed to be so ill.
- Go for: The world’s largest Art Nouveau (Modernista) complex; a city within a city designed by Lluís Domènech i Montaner.
- Cost: From approximately €18.
- Philosophy: The architect believed that beauty and nature could help heal patients, leading to lush gardens and ornate mosaics.
- UNESCO Site: Despite its beauty, it served as a fully functioning hospital until 2009.
- Underground: Don’t miss the tunnels that connect the different pavilions, designed for transporting patients out of the elements.
- Pro Tip: It is located at the end of Avinguda de Gaudí, providing a perfect straight-line view toward the Sagrada Família.
- Verdict: It is the world’s largest Art Nouveau complex, proving that tilework and gardens are a fine, if ineffective, cure for human misery.
Be enchanted by the Palau de la Música Catalana
- What the guides say: This concert hall is a UNESCO World Heritage site featuring a massive, inverted stained-glass skylight. It is decorated with an abundance of sculpture and color. People go there to listen to music, though they often spend an equal amount of time looking at the ceiling, which is shaped like a giant drop of honey.
- What they don’t tell you: Entering this concert hall, you will be confronted by an absolute riot of stained glass, floral mosaics, and sculpted figures – a magnificent, overwhelming explosion of Art Nouveau decoration. The sheer visual noise is so intense that you will find it difficult to focus on any actual musical performance, as you will be constantly distracted by the unsettling thought that you are sitting inside a very elaborate, highly decorated jewel box that might, at any moment, spring shut.
- Go for: An explosion of color and light; arguably the most beautiful concert hall in the world, famous for its stained-glass ceiling.
- Cost: From approximately €20 for a tour; concert prices vary.
- Natural Light: It is the only auditorium in Europe illuminated during the day entirely by natural light.
- Photography: The balcony with its forest of mosaic-covered columns is a prime spot for photos (included in the tour).
- The Ceiling: The inverted glass dome represents the sun and the sky.
- Experience: If possible, skip the tour and buy a ticket to a guitar concert to experience the hall as intended.
- Verdict: The visual noise is so loud you won’t hear the music.
The Oppressive Labyrinths and Human Traffic Jams
This category encompasses the city’s thoroughfares, where you are guaranteed to feel lost, oppressed, or subjected to the agonizing slowness of the collective crowd.
Wander the claustrophobic alleys of the Gothic Quarter
- What the guides say: The historic heart of the city is a labyrinth of narrow streets and Roman walls. It contains Gothic palaces, artisan workshops, and tapas bars. It is the oldest corner of Barcelona, meaning that the stones have been sitting in their current positions for a very long duration of time.
- What they don’t tell you: Here, the medieval streets are so narrow and winding that they appear to actively resist the light, creating a perpetual gloom. You will likely become lost in the oppressive labyrinth, surrounded by ancient stone walls that seem to lean in, as if sharing a terrible, whispered secret from a forgotten century.
- Go for: The narrow, winding medieval alleys that form the historic heart of the city.
- Cost: Free (walking).
- Hidden Detail: Look for the Pont del Bisbe (Bishop’s Bridge) (Map). Legend says if you look at the skull on the underside while crossing, you’ll have bad luck (unless you walk backward).
- History: You can still see Roman walls integrated into the medieval buildings near Plaça Nova (Map).
- Best Time: Early morning (before 9:00 AM) to see the streets empty and evocative, or late night for a mysterious atmosphere.
- Safety: Watch your pockets; the narrow alleys are prime spots for pickpockets.
- Verdict: You will get lost, look at a skull on a bridge, and realize the stone walls know more secrets than you ever will.
Endure the human traffic jam of La Rambla
- What the guides say: This pedestrian boulevard stretches from Plaça de Catalunya to the sea. It is a location characterized by flower stalls, street performers, and plane trees. While it is a primary destination for tourists, it is also a place where one can observe a high volume of people walking in various directions.
- What they don’t tell you: This famous boulevard, lined with vendors, flower stalls, and living statues, is a dreadful river of humanity. You will be swept along by the crowds, unable to stop or turn back, while constantly fighting the terrifying suspicion that your pockets have been artfully relieved of their contents.
- Go for: The world-famous pedestrian boulevard stretching from Plaça de Catalunya (Map) to the Christopher Columbus monument (Map).
- Cost: Free.
- The Name: It’s actually five different Ramblas joined together, which is why it’s often called Las Ramblas.
- Look Down: The wavy pattern on the floor is meant to mimic the ripples of the Mediterranean Sea.
- Local Lore: Drink from the Font de Canaletes; legend says anyone who drinks its water will surely return to Barcelona (Map).
- Tourist Traps: Avoid the terrace restaurants directly on the street – they are generally overpriced tourist traps” Walk two blocks into El Raval or the Gothic Quarter for better food.
- Verdict: Drink the water to ensure your return, then flee immediately to a side street where the paella isn’t a scam.
Engage in the thoroughly unrewarding exercise of walking through l’Eixample
- What the guides say: This district was created in the 19th century and follows a strict grid pattern with chamfered or cut-off corners. These corners create open intersections and give the neighborhood a spacious feel. It contains a high concentration of Modernista architecture and several expensive shops.
- What they don’t tell you: You will traverse block after block of perfectly straight, wide streets, forming a relentless, inescapable grid pattern. This architectural neatness is initially pleasing until you realize that every corner looks exactly like the last, and the terrible uniformity will make you feel as though you are trapped inside a perfectly organized, but utterly soulless, filing cabinet of streets.
- Go for: High-end shopping, Modernista architecture, and the unique octagonal street grid designed by Ildefons Cerdà.
- Cost: Free (walking).
- The Grid: The chamfered (cut-off) corners of the blocks were designed to allow steam trams to turn easily and to provide better light and ventilation.
- Shopping: This is the home of Passeig de Gràcia, Barcelona’s version of the Champs-Élysées (Map).
- Photography: Get to a rooftop bar to see the mesmerizing repetitive geometry of the blocks.
- Verdict: Every chamfered corner is unavoidable and identical to the last.

Get lost in La Barceloneta
- What the guides say: Formerly a quarter for fishermen, this triangular neighborhood is now the city’s primary beach destination. It contains narrow streets, seafood restaurants, and chiringuitos, which are bars located on the sand. It is a common location for the consumption of paella within sight of the Mediterranean Sea.
- What they don’t tell you: This former fishing quarter offers narrow, winding streets and closely packed buildings. You will attempt to appreciate its “authenticity” while simultaneously trying not to bump into anyone, and you will eventually find yourself disoriented in a tangle of shadowy alleys that smell strongly of seawater and an unidentifiable, deep-fried melancholy.
- Go for: The historic fisherman’s quarter and the city’s most popular (and lively) beach.
- Cost: Free.
- Dining: Go for La Bomba – a spicy potato and meat croquette invented here to represent an anarchist’s bomb.
- History: The neighborhood was built in the 18th century to house residents displaced by the construction of the Ciutadella fortress.
- Best Time: Winter or early spring for a peaceful walk; summer if you enjoy people-watching and beach bars (chiringuitos).
- Photography: The W Hotel (“The Sail”) offers a stunning backdrop for sunset shots along the shore (Map).
- Verdict: Eat a bomba to honor the anarchists, then find your way out before the tide comes in.
Navigate the narrow streets of El Raval
- What the guides say: This neighborhood is characterized by a mix of old-world architecture and modern skate culture. It contains world-class museums, vintage shops, and street art. It is a multicultural district that provides a documented contrast to the more polished areas located nearby.
- What they don’t tell you: Once a place of genuine, if sometimes seedy, character, you will now find this district undergoing a relentless and unsettling process of gentrification. You will witness a peculiar tension between the old, rough-and-tumble spirit of the neighbourhood and the new, brightly-coloured, overpriced establishments, leaving you with the sour taste of a cultural clash you can neither understand nor stop.
- Go for: Gritty, bohemian energy, diverse street art, and the MACBA skate culture.
- Cost: Free.
- Culture: Home to Bar Marsella, the city’s oldest absinthe bar, once frequented by Hemingway, Picasso, and Dalí (Map).
- Safety: While much safer than in the past, keep your wits about you in the darker alleys at night.
- Contrast: It’s a fascinating mix of old-world immigrant culture and ultra-modern cultural centers.
- Verdict: A gritty clash of skateboards, absinthe, and gentrification that asks nothing of you but a firm grip on your belongings.
The Confounding Halls of Misunderstanding and Detritus
Within these institutions, you will be forced to confront art that makes you question your own sanity, intelligence, and understanding of the world.
Question everything at the Museu Picasso de Barcelona (Picasso Museum Barcelona)
- What the guides say: Located within five medieval palaces, this museum focuses on the early years of Pablo Picasso. It contains an extensive collection of his formative works. Visitors can observe his transition from classical painting techniques to the early stages of Cubism, which involves drawing people as if they were made of boxes.
- What they don’t tell you: You will shuffle slowly past a great many works of art, starting with the recognizable and ending with the utterly confounding. You will see paintings from the artist’s early, more sensible periods, which will fill you with a false sense of security. Then, you will encounter the later works, which will make you question if you possess any understanding of art whatsoever, leaving you with the dreadful sensation that you are the victim of a very elaborate, very colourful practical joke.
- Go for: An extensive collection of Picasso’s formative years, housed in five beautiful medieval palaces.
- Cost: Approximately €15; pay less by purchasing your ticket online; free on the first Sunday of every month and on free-of-charge times listed on the ticket page – but you must book online in advance. An audioguide will cost an additional €5.
- Focus: It focuses on his early development rather than his Cubist hits; you’ll see how he mastered classical painting as a teenager.
- Architecture: The palace courtyards are as much of a draw as the paintings.
- Photography: Photography is generally restricted in the main galleries, so focus on the architecture in the patios.
- Verdict: It is an elaborate, five-palace practical joke on your perception of reality. The early works are the only things that will make sense.
Experience the unique discomfort of modern art at Museu d’Art Contemporani de Barcelona (MACBA)
- What the guides say: This large white building is a center for modern creativity in the Raval district. The plaza in front of the building is a globally recognized hub for people who ride skateboards. Inside, the galleries host exhibitions that focus on social and political themes through a contemporary lens.
- What they don’t tell you: You will gaze upon objects that appear to be ordinary detritus – a pile of bricks, a tangled wire, a blank canvas – and you will spend a great deal of time trying to determine if it is art or simply a very expensive mistake. The clean, cold, white space of the museum only exacerbates the feeling that you are the thing being examined and found wanting.
- Go for: Cutting-edge contemporary art and the iconic white minimalist building designed by Richard Meier.
- Cost: Approximately €12; pay less by purchasing your ticket online or visiting at an off-peak time.
- Skateboarding: The plaza in front (Plaça dels Àngels) is a world-famous mecca for skateboarders; it’s an art form in itself to watch them.
- Best Time: Wednesday afternoons often feature discounted or free events/exhibits.
- The Building: The light-filled interior is a photographer’s dream for clean lines and architectural shadows.
- Exhibits: Note that the permanent collection is small; the museum focuses heavily on rotating, often political, temporary exhibitions.
- Verdict: You will wonder if a pile of wire is art or a maintenance error. Watch the skaters outside for a more relatable performance.
Take a moment to escape reality at Fundació Joan Miró
- What the guides say: Situated on Montjuïc hill, this museum was established by the artist himself. The building contains a large collection of paintings and sculptures featuring primary colors and whimsical shapes. Due to its elevation, the museum also provides a panoramic view of the city below.
- What they don’t tell you: One visits this serene, white building high on Montjuïc to look at the colorful, often childlike and surreal works of Miró. You will ponder the whimsical shapes and bright, primary colours, and for a fleeting moment, you may feel a sense of lightness. This lightness, however, will be swiftly replaced by the profound realization that you are an adult who must now return to the dull, straight lines of reality, while the artist’s joyful squiggles remain forever free on the canvas.
- Go for: A playful, colorful journey through the surrealist works of Barcelona’s own Joan Miró, set on Montjuïc hill.
- Cost: Approximately €18; timed-entry tickets can be purchased online
- Mercury Fountain: Don’t miss the Alexander Calder Mercury Fountain – it uses real liquid mercury (behind glass) and is mesmerising.
- Architecture: Designed by Josep Lluís Sert, it is one of the few museums in the world where the artist and architect collaborated on the space.
- The Roof: Offers whimsical sculptures set against a stunning backdrop of the Barcelona skyline.
- Photography: The bright primary colors of Miró’s tapestries and sculptures pop beautifully against the white walls.
- Verdict: You will enjoy the primary colors until you realize your life is composed of dull, straight lines.
Visit the Museu de la Xocolata (Chocolate Museum)
- What the guides say: Located in a former monastery, this museum documents the history of chocolate in Europe. While it explains the medicinal uses of the substance, it is best known for its chocolate sculptures. These include miniature versions of famous buildings, which are technically edible but generally kept behind glass.
- What they don’t tell you: An entire museum devoted to the cloying confection, which features various sculptures made entirely of chocolate. It is a wasteful, saccharine display that will only remind you of your own weakness for sweets and the fleeting, perishable nature of most human endeavor.
- Go for: Intricate sculptures made entirely of chocolate, ranging from religious figures to Disney characters.
- Cost: Approximately €7.
- The Ticket: Your entry ticket is actually a bar of dark chocolate with a QR code on it – don’t eat the code before you scan in!
- Workshops: They offer chocolate-making classes for kids and chocolate and wine pairings for adults.
- History: Learn why Barcelona was the main port for cocoa when it first arrived in Europe from the Americas.
- Smell: Even if you aren’t a fan of the exhibits, the smell inside the museum is heavenly.
- Verdict: Go to see Mickey Mouse rendered in cocoa, then leave before the sugar crash sets in.
The Silent Memorials and Terrifying Heights
This group features places designed to remind you of tragedy, death, historical insignificance, and the sheer terror of being suspended far above the uncaring earth.
Gaze upon the shrapnel scars on the Cathedral of Barcelona
- What the guides say: This Gothic cathedral is the seat of the Archbishop and contains a 14th-century cloister. The cloister is inhabited by thirteen white geese, and they are quite loud.
- What they don’t tell you: This Gothic cathedral harbors a dreadful secret: the walls of the church still bear the pockmarks from a bombing during the Spanish Civil War. It is a permanent, silent memorial to an unspeakable tragedy, masked by an illusion of peace. Enter, and you shall find yourself inside a vast, cavernous stone building, where the hushed, reverent air is so thick with history and incense that it feels less like a place of worship and more like a very solemn, very dusty trap.
- Go for: Stunning Gothic architecture and the famous 13 white geese living in the cloister.
- Cost: Free for prayer; approximately €16 for the Cultural Visit (including roof access).
- Planning Tip: A timed-entry ticket to this solemn institution can be obtained for 16€, and can be purchased online or on arrival.
- The Geese: There are exactly 13 geese to represent the age of Saint Eulalia when she was martyred.
- The Roof: Take the elevator to the roof for one of the best views of the Gothic Quarter’s spires.
- Dress Code: They are strict about bare shoulders and knees – bring a scarf to cover up.
- Best Time: Visit on Sunday mornings to see locals dancing the Sardana (traditional Catalan dance) in the square outside.
- Verdict: The roof view is top-tier, even if the interior feels like history is breathing down your neck.
Contemplate the Basílica de Santa Maria del Mar
- What the guides say: This church is a masterpiece of Catalan Gothic architecture, built in the 14th century by local sailors and laborers. It is known for its high ceilings and minimalist design. It serves as a symbol of the resilience of the surrounding neighborhood and has been the subject of several books.
- What they don’t tell you: This architectural endeavor, known for its soaring columns and expansive, airy interior, gives one the distinct impression of being insignificant – a small, perishable speck of a person beneath an enormous, indifferent stone sky. You will likely crane your neck until it is quite sore, contemplating how such a magnificent structure could be built by human hands, and then you will realize that your hands are currently struggling to open a small, foil-wrapped souvenir candy.
- Go for: A pure Catalan Gothic church known for its incredible height, acoustic perfection, and the Cathedral of the Sea fame.
- Cost: Free for prayer; €5 for the towers and terraces, and €5 more for access to the roof.
- History: It was built in record time (54 years) by the local bastaixos (dockworkers) who carried the stones from Montjuïc on their backs.
- FC Barcelona: Look closely at the stained glass windows; you can find the FC Barcelona crest (the club donated to the restoration).
- Simplicity: Unlike the ornate Cathedral, this interior is stark and airy, emphasizing the soaring nature of the arches.
- Photography: The symmetry of the central nave is a classic shot for architecture enthusiasts.
- Verdict: It is a soaring, indifferent masterpiece that makes you feel like a very small, foil-wrapped candy. The acoustics are perfect for hearing your own sighs.
Try to understand the Temple d’August (Temple of Augustus)
- What the guides say: Hidden in a small courtyard, four Roman columns are all that remain of a temple built 2,000 years ago. These pillars are 30 feet tall and were dedicated to Emperor Augustus. They are often missed by tourists who are looking for more modern things, such as coffee or postcards.
- What they don’t tell you: Tucked away in a dark corner of the Gothic Quarter are four colossal, inexplicably preserved Roman columns from the first century B.C. They stand awkwardly and alone, utterly out of place, an unsettling reminder that the ground you walk on is merely a thin crust over millennia of history.
- Go for: Four towering Roman columns hidden inside a small medieval courtyard; a silent witness to the city’s 2,000-year history.
- Cost: Free.
- Finding It: It’s hidden inside the MUHBA building on Carrer del Paradís – look for a small doorway that looks like a regular office.
- Fact: These columns were part of the forum of Barcino (the Roman name for Barcelona).
- Photography: It is very dark inside the courtyard; use a tripod or high ISO to capture the scale of the columns.
- Context: It marks the highest point of Mount Taber, the small hill upon which the original Roman city was built.
- Verdict: It’s a 2,000-year-old secret that proves the city is just a crust over the past.
Take the Telefèric de Montjuïc (Montjuïc Cable Car) and feel suspended
- What the guides say: This cable car transports people from the city level to Montjuïc Castle. It allows passengers to hang from a wire above the trees to observe the harbor and the Sagrada Família. It is a method of reaching the top of the hill without using one’s own legs for the steep incline.
- What they don’t tell you: The ascent provides a view that is undeniably magnificent, but the terrifying feeling of being suspended in a small, swaying metal box high above the indifferent city below is a visceral reminder of your own fragility.
- Go for: A scenic aerial ride from the lower park up to the Montjuïc Castle with panoramic views of the port.
- Cost: Approximately €15-17 (round trip); save by purchasing online.
- Best Time: Take the last ride up before the sun goes down for incredible golden views over the Mediterranean.
- One Way: You can buy a one-way ticket and walk back down through the beautiful Mossèn Costa i Llobera cactus gardens.
- Photography: Glass reflections can be tricky; try to hold your lens right against the window to minimize glare.
- Verdict: Pay to be suspended in a swaying metal box. The view is magnificent, but the height is a visceral reminder of your own fragility. Go for the thrill.
Observe the uncomfortable statues on the Cementiri de Montjuïc (Montjuïc Cemetery)
- What the guides say: This cemetery is located on the slopes of Montjuïc and contains tiered graves and family pantheons. Many notable figures from Barcelona’s history are buried here. It is a quiet location that overlooks the industrial port, providing a view of both history and shipping containers.
- What they don’t tell you: This vast, tiered burial ground is a hillside city of the dead, filled with elaborate mausoleums and unsettlingly dramatic funerary sculptures. It is a place of profound and depressing finality, offering a comprehensive, marble-clad tour of the inevitable.
- Go for: Incredible funerary art and neo-classical sculptures on a hillside overlooking the sea.
- Cost: Free.
- The Kiss of Death: Its most famous sculpture is El Petó de la Mort, a haunting depiction of a winged skeleton kissing a young man.
- Scale: It is massive; there are specialized bus tours because walking the whole thing is nearly impossible.
- Famous Residents: You can visit the graves of Joan Miró and Isaac Albéniz.
- Photography Note: Be respectful; it is a functioning cemetery, and photographing grieving families is strictly prohibited.
- Verdict: It’s a profound, depressing tour of the inevitable.
The Gaudy Outdoor Displays and Sensory Overloads
These last attractions are either overwhelming to the senses, built for insignificant reasons, or simply baffling in their existence.
Suffer the sensory overload of Mercat de la Boqueria (La Boqueria Market)
- What the guides say: Located near La Rambla, this is a large food market containing stalls that sell fruit, cured meats, and seafood. Visitors can purchase fresh juice at the entrance or eat at small tapas bars located inside. It is a location with a high concentration of sensory information, specifically smells.
- What they don’t tell you: A sprawling, dazzling, and utterly overwhelming food market. The sheer quantity of hanging meats, glistening fish, and brightly-colored produce is enough to induce a dizzying effect, a dreadful illustration of excessive abundance that will leave you with a sickening feeling of greed.
- Go for: A sensory overload of fresh fruit juices, Iberian ham, seafood, and vibrant Catalan produce.
- Cost: Free entry (but you’ll definitely spend money on food).
- Dining: Eat at El Quim de la Boqueria, get the fried eggs with baby squid (Map).
- The Juice Tip: Don’t buy the €2-3 juices at the very front; walk three rows back to find them for €1-1.50.
- Best Time: Before 10:00 AM to see the locals shopping, or right before closing for deals on fruit.
- The Entrance: The iron gate at the entrance is a beautiful piece of Modernista design.
- Verdict: The sensory overload is sickeningly abundant, but the fried eggs and squid are worth the chaos.
Get hopelessly lost in the Parc del Laberint d’Horta (Horta Labyrinth Park)
- What the guides say: Barcelona’s oldest garden features a hedge maze made of cypress trees. It also contains neoclassical pavilions and statues of Greek gods. It is a quiet retreat located far from the city center, where people go specifically to become momentarily lost among the bushes.
- What they don’t tell you: The city’s oldest park features a neoclassical hedge maze. Entering it is a charming idea, until you realize you cannot find the exit, and the two-meter-high, unyielding walls of foliage give you a dreadful sense of permanent, leafy entrapment.
- Go for: The oldest park in the city, featuring a neoclassical garden and a cypress hedge maze.
- Cost: Approximately €2.50 (Free on Wednesdays and Sundays).
- Cinema: This park was used as a filming location for the movie Perfume: The Story of a Murderer.
- The Maze: It’s harder than it looks! Give yourself 15 – 20 minutes to find the statue of Eros in the center.
- Capacity: They limit the number of visitors to 750 at a time, so it never feels overcrowded.
- Photography: The pavilions and the pond at the top level offer a very romantic era European aesthetic.
- Verdict: It’s a charming idea until you’re trapped in a maze.
Walk past the Arc de Triomf (Triumphal Arch) and feel un-triumphant
- What the guides say: This arch was built of reddish brick as the entrance to the 1888 Universal Exhibition. It features a Neo-Mudéjar style and decorative friezes. Today, the area leading away from the arch is used by skaters and musicians for the purpose of practicing their respective crafts.
- What they don’t tell you: This large, ornate brick arch was built not for a military victory, but for the 1888 Barcelona World Fair. It is a monument to an event, a mere trade show, which is a dreadful reminder that not all grand gestures are in aid of something truly meaningful.
- Go for: A striking reddish-brick gateway built as the main entrance for the 1888 Universal Exhibition.
- Cost: Free.
- Design: Unlike the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, which celebrates military victory, this one was built to celebrate civilization and economy.
- The Frieze: Look at the top; it depicts Barcelona welcoming the nations.
- Atmosphere: The palm-lined promenade (Passeig de Lluís Companys) leading from the arch is always full of buskers and bubble-blowers.
- Photography: Stand exactly in the center of the promenade for a perfectly symmetrical shot.
- Verdict: It’s a beautifully un-triumphant gesture, perfect for symmetrical photos and buskers.
Contemplate the watery fate of the Parc de la Ciutadella (Ciutadella Park) Cascada Monumental
- What the guides say: Formerly a military fortress, this park now contains the city zoo, the Catalan Parliament, and a lake for rowboats. The most prominent feature is the Cascada Monumental, which is a large fountain. It is a location where people frequently engage in yoga or picnics.
- What they don’t tell you: This massive, elaborate fountain, reportedly assisted in its design by a very young Gaudí, is all dripping stone, mossy statuary, and roaring water – a gaudy, excessive monument to liquid excess that seems constantly on the verge of collapsing under its own weight.
- Go for: The green lungs of the city and its massive fountain, which features a golden chariot and cascading water.
- Cost: Free.
- Gaudí Connection: A young, unknown Antoni Gaudí helped design the hydraulic system of the fountain (Map).
- The Mammoth: Nearby, there is a giant stone mammoth statue – it’s a tradition for kids and tourists to sit on its trunk for a photo (Map).
- Boating: You can rent small rowboats on the lake for a few euros – very popular for couples (Map).
- Picnics: This is the best spot in the city for a Sunday afternoon picnic and people-watching.
- Verdict: The fountain looks ready to collapse under its own golden weight. Picnic nearby and watch the water roar.
Seek out the peculiar public sculptures
- What the guides say: Barcelona contains many pieces of public art, such as the Head of Barcelona by Roy Lichtenstein and a very large Fat Cat by Fernando Botero. These installations are located in various outdoor spaces. They indicate that the city has a documented interest in things that are surreal or oversized.
- What they don’t tell you: The city is littered with baffling works of modern art, such as a gigantic, bright-yellow cat, a monstrous shrimp, and a disembodied face. They stand as monuments to a relentless artistic desire to shock and confuse the unsuspecting pedestrian.
- Go for: The Head of Barcelona (Roy Lichtenstein) and Peix (Frank Gehry’s giant golden fish) (Map).
- Cost: Free.
- The Face: Lichtenstein’s Head of Barcelona near the port was created for the 1992 Olympics and is covered in tiles to honor Gaudí (Map).
- The Prawn: Look for Gambrinus (The Giant Prawn) by Javier Mariscal on the Moll de la Fusta – it’s a symbol of the city’s 80s seafood boom (Map).
- The Cubes: L’Estel Ferit (The Wounded Star) at the beach consists of four stacked rusty cubes; it honors the former shanty-town residents of the area (Map).
- Fat Cat: You’ll find Fat Cat by Fernando Botero along the Rambla del Raval (Map).
- Planning: These are scattered; the best way to see them is on a bike tour along the waterfront and through the Olympic Port.
- Verdict: It’s a relentless attempt to shock pedestrians. Find the golden fish; it’s bafflingly large.

As you can see, the only truly successful course of action in Barcelona is the one you take away from it. The best thing you can do is to catch a slow, unremarkable train heading north, or perhaps a ship sailing west, and feel the magnificent, liberating relief of escaping the city’s charming presence. You have survived Barcelona. Do not ruin this small, solitary victory by ever returning.
Further Reading
If one is in search of a less dreadful and more pleasant perspective on Barcelona, a number of additional resources exist. These are, of course, presented with the understanding that such information is often a mere sugarcoating on a very bitter pill, and should be consumed with a healthy dose of suspicion.
- Turisme de Barcelona
- “Barcelona Travel Guide” by Gimme Some Oven
- “Ultimate Barcelona Travel Guide” by The Blonde Abroad
- “Overtourism in Barcelona” from Responsible Travel. You may want to skip reading that one.
- “36 Hours in Barcelona: Things to Do and See” from the New York Times (Paywall)
- “‘The Demand Is Unstoppable’: Can Barcelona Survive Mass Tourism?” from The New York Times (Paywall). My apologies. It appears that there is a limited number of rose-coloured perspectives on Barcelona.
- “Barcelona bus route removed from map apps to tackle tourist overcrowding” from The Guardian. Again, my apologies for the less-than-pleasant subject matter.



































































































