If you are about to read this travel article about the city of Dubrovnik, I must advise you to put it down immediately. A more pleasant and less upsetting way to pass the time would be to have a large rock dropped on your foot, or to be locked in a room with a hungry tiger and a very small amount of raw meat. The beautiful cobblestone streets of this Croatian city, a place of red-tiled roofs and ancient stone walls, are not, as some would have you believe, a cheerful sight for sore eyes. On the contrary, Dubrovnik is a city that has been repeatedly besieged, attacked, and rebuilt, leaving behind a trail of sorrow and rubble for historians to catalog. The things you are about to read about are not adventures. They are merely a new set of trials for those who are foolish enough to believe that a beautiful vista can make up for the sheer, unmitigated awfulness of human existence. You have been warned.

Despite the tone, this guide is designed to help you plan your trip efficiently. All prices, hours, and logistical advice are accurate at the time of publication.

If this is your first stop in Croatia, read Exploring Croatia: Beauty and Peril Awaits.

Best Things to See and Do in Dubrovnik (And Why They Might Disappoint You)

In any given metropolis, there is a list of Best Things to See and Do, an optimistic and misleading phrase that suggests these activities will be entirely delightful and without peril. Such a list, however, is merely a catalog of places where one can witness something curious, or perhaps even perform a curious deed oneself. One should approach this list with caution and a healthy dose of suspicion, as no one can truly promise that what you see and do will be anything but an experience of dreadful consequence.

While I endeavor to furnish you with the costs of regular adult admission for the various locales of interest, you must understand that the proprietors of these places will almost certainly offer lesser prices for children, students, the elderly, and other groups in order to make a simple transaction more complicated. You should also be aware of the Dubrovnik Pass, which permits free access to an alarming number of sights and the local public transportation.

Elevated Discomfort & Vistas of Void

These entries focus on locations that require physical effort, payment, or precarious elevation to reach a perspective that ultimately serves to emphasize the visitor’s insignificance, discomfort, or the folly of their endeavors.

Endure the Walls of Dubrovnik’s Old City

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What the guides say: The act of traversing the two-kilometer stone loop of these medieval fortifications is considered the city’s primary activity. These walls provide a bird’s-eye view – an elevated perspective usually reserved for winged creatures – of the Adriatic Sea and the various terracotta rooftops. Reaching heights of 25 meters, these structures have functioned as a defensive system for the Republic for many centuries and are an ideal location for the operation of a camera.
What they don’t tell you: The main attraction – a towering ring of stone that once kept invaders out, but now only serves to trap thousands of tourists inside. You will pay an unforgivable sum to walk a dizzying circuit under the unforgiving sun, surrounded by strangers, all while gazing down at the very town you are attempting to escape. The views are, predictably, excellent, a detail which only compounds the sorrow, as it proves that even perfect beauty cannot prevent profound discomfort.
Go for: The definitive Dubrovnik experience – walking the full two-kilometer
perimeter of the Old Town from above.
Cost: Approximately €20 in the winter or €35 in the summer.
Best Time: Early morning (8:00 AM) or two hours before sunset to avoid the heat and cruise ship crowds.
Photography: The Minceta Tower provides the highest point for that famous orange rooftop shot against the blue sea.
Direction of Travel: The walls are one-way (counter-clockwise).
Packing Tip: Bring plenty of water, as prices at the wall-top kiosks are significantly marked up.
Verdict: You will pay a king’s ransom to walk in a slow, sweltering circle, trapped between ancient stone and thousands of strangers – only to realize the view is so perfect it justifies every cent of your suffering.

Dubrovnik City Walls

Contemplate the Fort Lovrijenac

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What the guides say: Often referred to as Dubrovnik’s Gibraltar, this fortress is situated upon a cliff measuring 37 meters in height, positioned outside the western section of the walls. It was originally constructed to prevent Venetian governance and currently serves as a venue for theatrical productions. The ascent requires the use of many stairs, but the resulting view of the Old City is statistically significant in its excellence.
What they don’t tell you: Perched on a dramatic cliff outside the city walls, this triangular fortress is a testament to grim defiance. You must climb a series of harrowing steps to reach it, and upon arrival, you will merely observe the Old City from a distance, reinforcing the unfortunate truth that true enjoyment is often a matter of remaining far away from the source of the problem.
Go for: Exploring the Gibraltar of Dubrovnik, a fortress perched on a 37-meter-high cliff outside the city walls.
Cost: Included in the City Walls ticket (within 3 days) or approximately €5 separately.
Game of Thrones: Game of Thrones fans will recognize this as the Red Keep.
Photography: Look back toward the Old Town for the most iconic profile view of the city walls and the West Pier.
Getting There: There are nearly 200 steps to reach the top, so pace yourself.
Verdict: A dramatic climb up too many stairs to reach a triangular fortress of grim defiance, where the reward is realizing that the Old City looks much better when you are safely looking down upon it from a distance.

Views from Fort Lovrijenac

Fort Lovrijenac

Dubrovnik from Fort Lovrijenac

Ascend Mount Srđ on the cable car

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What the guides say: To observe the widest possible panorama, one may utilize the orange cable car to reach the peak of Mount Srđ. This journey takes four minutes and concludes 412 meters above the level of the sea. From this elevation, the Old Town appears to be a small architectural model placed within the water. On days with low atmospheric interference, visibility extends to 60 kilometers. The summit contains a dining establishment and the Museum of the Homeland War, located inside Fort Imperial.
What they don’t tell you: You will enter a small, glass box with a dozen other nervous tourists and be hauled rapidly to the top of a steep mountain. The reward for this brief, enclosed anxiety is a panorama so sweeping it will remind you of your own insignificance. From this high vantage point, the sparkling Adriatic will appear vast and indifferent, and the orange roofs of the city, so charming from below, will merely look like an unnervingly large target.
Go for: Breathtaking aerial views of the entire Dubrovnik area and the Elafiti Islands.
Cost: Approximately €30 for a round-trip; €17 for one-way.
Best Time: Sunset. Watch the sun dip into the Adriatic while the city lights begin to twinkle.
Photography: Walk a few minutes away from the cable car station to find a spot without the cables obstructing your view.
Napoleon: The cross at the top was a gift from Napoleon, though the original was destroyed during the Homeland War and later replaced.
Verdict: Spend four minutes in a glass box to achieve a perspective so vast it makes the city look like a toy and your personal problems look like nothing at all.

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Locate the Buža Bar (Hole-in-the-Wall)

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What the guides say: This establishment is named with startling accuracy, as it is entered through a small aperture in the city walls. It is located on the cliffs directly above the ocean waves. The bar is a minimalist enterprise, which is to say it serves cold beverages and offers very simple chairs, but its location is widely discussed. It is a known spot for consuming a beverage during sunset or leaping into the sea from the nearby jagged rocks.
What they don’t tell you: This is an infamous bar accessed through a small, seemingly forgotten hole in the City Walls. The location is spectacular, perched directly on the rock face, but you will find yourself paying too much for a drink (cash only) while sitting precariously close to a sudden, terrifying drop into the unforgiving sea.
Go for: Drinks on the cliffside outside the city walls and the chance to jump directly into the sea.
Cost: Free entry; drink prices are premium (€8 – €12 for a beer).
Best Time: Mid-afternoon if you want to swim; sunset for the vibes.
Verdict: Pay a premium to sit on the edge of a cliff and contemplate the abyss while sipping a cold beer; it is the most expensive way to feel like a sophisticated castaway, and it is worth every cent.

Claustrophobic Gauntlets & Mundane Misery

This category is for the essential, unavoidable, and highly crowded areas of the city that force the tourist into physically uncomfortable, overly commercialized, or spiritually empty experiences.

Brave the Stradun (Main Street)

Map

What the guides say: The Stradun is the primary pedestrian thoroughfare paved in limestone that bisects the Old City. It connects the eastern and western gates and is flanked by uniform Baroque structures containing various businesses. Many years of human footsteps have buffed the white stones until they possess a reflective quality. It serves as the city’s social center, suitable for observing other people, walking in the evening, and noting the historical atmosphere of the area.
What they don’t tell you: This is the primary thoroughfare, a street so polished by centuries of human traffic that it gleams like a mirror, reflecting all your deepest regrets. You will find yourself packed shoulder-to-shoulder with strangers, all marching toward an unknown and equally crowded destination. It is a relentless gauntlet of overpriced ice cream and souvenir shops that sell only trinkets you will regret buying. Those who stand for nothing fall for anything.
Go for: Walking the main limestone-paved artery of the Old Town, lined with shops and historic buildings.
Cost: Free.
History: The street was once a channel of water that separated the island settlement from the mainland before being filled in.
Photography: Visit late at night or during light rain; the polished limestone reflects light like a mirror.
Tourist Trap: This is the most expensive place to eat; for better deals, duck into the narrow side alleys.
Verdict: A gleaming limestone gauntlet where the floor is a mirror and the air is 40% tourists; it is a crowded, shiny necessity that makes the quiet side alleys feel like a hard-won victory.

Endure the Pile Gate entrance

Map

What the guides say: The primary entrance to the Old Town is a large stone gate featuring a wooden drawbridge that was historically retracted every evening. Passing beneath the statue of St. Blaise, the city’s patron saint, marks the transition from the modern world into a historical environment. The region immediately outside the gate functions as a logistical hub for buses and taxis, serving as the starting point for the vast majority of visitors.
What they don’t tell you: This is the main, fortified entry point into the Old City, where thousands of people converge at once. You will be funneled through the tight, ancient archways like cattle being driven to market, forced to move at the slowest possible speed, all while experiencing a deep, shared claustrophobic anxiety.
Go for: Entering the city through the grand 16th-century stone gate and drawbridge.
Cost: Free.
Saint Blaise: The statue above the gate is St. Blaise, the protector of Dubrovnik, holding a model of the city.
Photography: The inner courtyard between the two gates offers a perfect medieval transition shot.
Planning Tip: This is the main transport hub; all local buses and taxis drop off here.
Verdict: You will be funneled through a medieval needle’s eye alongside a thousand strangers, a brief moment of shared claustrophobia that serves as the mandatory ritual for entering paradise.

Pile Gate

Gaze upon the Onofrio’s Large Fountain

Map

What the guides say: Located just inside Pile Gate, this sixteen-sided circular fountain was constructed in 1438 as a component of a sophisticated water delivery system. Each side displays a unique stone carving known as a maskeron. The water remains potable to this day, which makes it a frequent stopping point for travelers wishing to replenish their water containers and lower their body temperature during the warm Croatian summer.
What they don’t tell you: A grand, circular fountain – a complex, multi-faceted structure that suggests a plentiful supply of cool, refreshing water. However, it is merely a large, cold structure where you must jostle for space with others just to fill a bottle, a small, frustrating skirmish that reminds one of the universal scarcity of simple pleasures.
Go for: Admiring the 15th-century circular fountain and refilling your water bottle.
Cost: Free.
Free Water: The water is still potable and comes from a spring 12km away. It has 16 maskeroni (carved stone faces) from which the water flows.
Muster Point: This is the most popular meeting point in the city; if you lose your group, meet here.
Photography Tip: Use a fast shutter speed to freeze the water coming out of the stone mouths.
Verdict: A 15th-century thirst trap that asks nothing of you but a reusable bottle and the patience to wait your turn at a stone mouth; it’s the city’s most honest meeting point.

Onofrio's Large Fountain — Onofrio’s Large Fountain

Wander through the Gundulić Square Market

Map

What the guides say: Each morning, this historical square is utilized as an open-air market. Local vendors offer dried figs, lavender, honey, and various fruits beneath green umbrellas. It remains a location where the daily habits of the local population are observable. By the afternoon, the market equipment is removed, and the square is occupied by restaurant furniture and a significant number of pigeons.
What they don’t tell you: At this daily market, vendors sell vegetables, fruits, and inevitable tourist trinkets under the watchful, judgmental gaze of a Baroque statue. You will purchase an oddly-shaped piece of produce, only to realize later that you could have found something cheaper and less suspicious at home.
Go for: Fresh local produce, dried figs, lavender products, and honey.
Cost: Free to browse. If you want to buy something, note that most vendors take cash (Euros) only.
Best Time: Morning (7:00 AM – 1:00 PM). At noon, watch the feeding of the pigeons – hundreds swarm the square.
Ivan Gundulić: The square is named after the city’s most famous poet, Ivan Gundulić; his statue stands in the center.
Verdict: Go for the lavender and dried figs, but stay for the noon-day pigeon swarm that proves nature always has a plan for your leftovers; it’s a charmingly chaotic slice of local life.

Search for the Jesuit Staircase

Map

What the guides say: This Baroque staircase is a notable work of design, created in the likeness of the Spanish Steps located in Rome. It provides a path up to the Jesuit Church of St. Ignatius. While it has always been an architectural feature, it achieved international recognition as the filming site for the Walk of Shame in a popular television series. Many visitors now arrive to photograph the stairs or observe the dramatic view of the city from the top.
What they don’t tell you: You will locate this impressive Baroque stairway, which you may recognize from a notoriously upsetting television program. Tourists flock here, not for its architectural merit, but to mimic the humiliating walk of shame that was once filmed upon its steps – a poignant reminder that even art and history are often reduced to a cheap, widely-distributed spectacle.
Go for: Climbing the grand Baroque steps modeled after the Spanish Steps in Rome.
Cost: Free.
Game of Thrones: This is the site of the famous Walk of Shame from Game of Thrones.
Tour: Join a Game of Thrones tour to see more filming locations.
Photography: Shoot from the bottom looking up to capture the symmetry of the St. Ignatius Church at the top.
Planning Tip: It gets very crowded with tour groups; try to visit before 9:00 AM.
Verdict: Whether you are there for the Baroque architecture or to silently reenact a Walk of Shame, these stairs are a masterclass in cinematic grandeur that justifies the inevitable crowd.

Morbid Symbols & Futile Escapes

These locations offer a supposed respite or a symbolic experience, but ultimately confront the visitor with underlying anxieties, historical trauma, or the certainty of human decay.

Take the ferry to Lokrum Island

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What the guides say: A ten-minute ferry journey from the Old Port leads to this island, which serves as a quiet refuge. It contains a botanical garden, a fort built during the Napoleonic era, and a salt lake referred to as the Dead Sea. There is a legend suggesting Richard the Lionheart was shipwrecked at this location. No humans reside on the island; it is inhabited only by peacocks and rabbits, making it suitable for a day of swimming and walking.
What they don’t tell you: Seeking a moment of peace, you will board a small boat and be delivered to an island where, legend claims, a curse awaits. You may find shade under the pines and a moment of quiet by the salt lake, but the pervasive anxiety that accompanies all moments of temporary escape will remain, and you will be forced to wait for a boat to return you to your problems.
Go for: A 15-minute boat ride to a lush nature reserve with peacocks, botanical gardens, and a Dead Sea salt lake.
Cost: Approximately €30 (includes the ferry and nature reserve entry). Buy tickets from the official ticket window at the port (Map).
Planning Tip: Boats depart every 30 minutes.
Curse: Legend says the island is cursed, and you should never stay overnight.
Game of Thrones: Visit the Benedictine Monastery to sit on the official HBO Iron Throne.
Verdict: A 15-minute escape to an island where peacocks rule, botanical gardens thrive, and a supposed curse ensures you won’t stay long enough to get bored.

Lokrum Island Peacocks

Lokrum Island – Dead Sea

Stumble across the Franciscan Monastery pharmacy

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What the guides say: Established in the year 1317, this is one of the oldest pharmacies in continuous operation on the planet. Situated within the Franciscan Monastery, it continues to provide creams and ointments produced from historical recipes and local plant life. While the pharmacy occupies a small space, the adjacent 14th-century cloister is a quiet area of architectural importance, featuring double columns and various plants.
What they don’t tell you: A centuries-old monastery that houses a functioning pharmacy, making it one of the oldest in Europe. You will be drawn by the faint, unsettling scent of ancient herbs and dubious tinctures. This is where one goes not for relief, but to witness the sheer, prolonged history of human suffering and the long, futile search for a cure to the woes of the world.
Go for: Visiting one of the oldest still-functioning pharmacies in Europe (since 1317).
Cost: Approximately €8 for the cloister and pharmacy museum.
Planning Tip: You can still buy face creams and lotions made from ancient recipes using local herbs.
Photography: The Romanesque cloister is one of the most peaceful and photogenic spots in the city.
Maskeron: Look for the maskeron (stone head) in the wall near the entrance. According to legend, if you manage to stand on it, keep your balance, and take off your shirt while still standing facing the wall, you will be lucky in love.
Verdict: It is a quiet, herbal-scented reminder that we have been trying to cure ourselves of being human for a very long time.

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Visit the ruins of Hotel Belvedere

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What the guides say: Formerly a high-end resort, this hotel was ruined during a siege in 1991 and has remained an unoccupied shell ever since. It provides a visual record of the city’s recent conflicts and has been used as a setting for filmed battles. Situated a short distance from the center, it is frequented by individuals interested in urban ruins and history that has not been renovated for the purpose of tourism.
What they don’t tell you: You will venture outside the Old Town to find this abandoned, half-destroyed former luxury hotel. Once a magnificent establishment, it now stands as a dramatic, melancholic ruin, a tangible symbol of war, decay, and the ultimate, certain collapse of all human ambition. It is a profoundly depressing location, perfect for contemplating the transient nature of wealth and comfort.
Go for: Exploring an abandoned, luxury hotel that was destroyed in the 1990s war; a must for urban explorers.
Cost: Free.
Game of Thrones: The amphitheater was a filming location for the duel between Oberyn and The Mountain in Game of Thrones.
Getting There: It is a 20-minute walk from the Old Town.
Safety: Be careful, as the structure is unmaintained and potentially at risk of collapse.
Best Time: Late afternoon for a melancholy, sunset atmosphere.
Verdict: It is the most melancholic and honest view of the city’s history you will find for free.

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Observe the War Photo Limited Museum

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What the guides say: This gallery displays the realities of armed conflict through the work of professional photojournalists. Although it features wars from various parts of the world, its permanent display regarding the dissolution of Yugoslavia is vital for understanding the history of Dubrovnik in the early 1990s. The photographs are unfiltered and intended to demonstrate the illogical nature of war rather than to support a specific faction.
What they don’t tell you: Located near the Stradun, this small, vital museum displays the harrowing, real-life consequences of war in the region and across the globe. It is a necessary but profoundly upsetting experience, offering a brief, brutal respite from the superficiality of your vacation and forcing you to confront the true, widespread nature of human cruelty.
Go for: A powerful, sobering look at the reality of the Balkan conflict through world-class photojournalism.
Cost: Approximately €10.
Global Conflicts: The museum doesn’t just focus on Croatia; it has rotating exhibits on global conflicts.
Photography: Photography is discouraged inside; focus on absorbing the stories instead.
Verdict: A brutal, necessary reality check that ruins your vacation mood just enough to remind you that the beauty outside was very nearly lost forever; it is the most important hour you will spend in the city.

Wade into Banje Beach

Map

What the guides say: The city’s most well-known beach is situated to the east of the Old Town. It is composed of pebbles and sand, featuring clear water and a view of the harbor fortifications. One portion of the beach is managed by a club offering sunbeds, while the other portion is available for general use. It is the most accessible location for swimming while remaining in close proximity to the historic center.
What they don’t tell you: The city’s most famous beach, offering a stunning view of the Old Town. You will arrive expecting soft sand and quiet relaxation, but will instead be confronted by sharp, uncomfortable pebbles and water so clear it will reveal the alarming state of your own feet. You must rent an overpriced chair to avoid sitting directly upon the painful ground.
Go for: Swimming with the best view of the Old Town walls and Lokrum Island.
Cost: Free for the public area; €30+ for a sunbed at the club.
Photography: The view of the city from the water at sunset is spectacular.
Dress Code: The beach is pebbly, not sandy. Bring water shoes if you have sensitive feet.
Best Time: Before 10:00 AM if you want a spot in the free public section.
Verdict: Your feet will resent the pebbles and your wallet will resent the sunbeds, but once you are floating in that crystal-clear water looking back at the walls, you’ll admit the trade-off was fair.

Take a sea kayak tour

What the guides say: Propelling a small boat around the exterior of the city walls provides a different understanding of the city’s dimensions. Most excursions begin at Pile and travel toward Lokrum Island or sea caves such as Betina. Being on the water allows one to avoid large groups of people while observing the fortifications from the same perspective as historical naval forces once did.
What they don’t tell you: You will be put into a flimsy plastic boat and required to row in the open, choppy sea. This is sold as a relaxing excursion, but is, in fact, a prolonged, highly visible feat of endurance that will leave your shoulders aching, your clothes damp, and your sense of adventure entirely extinguished.
Go for: Seeing the city walls from the water and exploring the Betina Cave beach.
Cost: Approximately €35 – €45.
Best Time: The sunset tour is the most popular and usually includes a glass of wine at the end.
Planning Tip: Most tours depart from Pile Bay (under the bridge – Map). Be prepared for a moderate workout!
Try: This Sea Kayaking & Snorkeling Tour.
Photography: Most guides provide waterproof barrels for your phone, but a GoPro with a head mount is best for action shots.
Verdict: A self-inflicted workout on the open sea that replaces your comfort with salt spray and aching shoulders, providing a view of the fortifications that makes you feel like a conqueror rather than a tourist.

Visit the Rector’s Palace

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What the guides say: This building served as the administrative center for the Republic of Ragusa and features a combination of Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque architectural styles. It currently functions as a museum where one may view old courtrooms, prison cells, and the private rooms of the Rector. The central courtyard is frequently used for musical performances because its acoustics are excellent.
What they don’t tell you: This Gothic-Renaissance structure once housed the Rector, the city’s chief political figure. It is an ornate building dedicated entirely to the dreary subjects of governance and administration. You will wander through its quiet halls, learning about committees and official duties, a process that is both historically necessary and profoundly uninteresting.
Go for: The stunning Gothic-Renaissance architecture and the history of the Republic of Ragusa.
Cost: Approximately €15.
Planning Tip: Check the schedule for classical music concerts; the acoustics in the courtyard are world-class.
The Rector: The Rector served for only one month at a time and was not allowed to leave the palace except for official business.
Photography: The atrium’s staircase and arches are famous for their elegant, cinematic lighting.
Verdict: A gorgeous tribute to the bureaucracy of the past; you’ll arrive for the stunning Gothic arches and leave with a newfound appreciation for the fact that you aren’t a Rector trapped in a one-month political prison.

Now that this miserable account has drawn to a close, and you have been given a list of bleak activities to partake in, you may find yourself with a growing sense of dread. This is not an unusual reaction. Many who read about the sun-drenched beauty of Dubrovnik are left with a feeling of unease, as if they have been given directions to a beautiful, and yet deeply unsettling, place. But perhaps you are not a person who is easily swayed by a sense of impending doom. Perhaps you will go to Dubrovnik, despite my warnings, and you will find some small, fleeting moment of happiness amidst the ancient stones. And so, I leave you to your own devices. May your travels be less dreadful than they have a right to be.

Dismal Destinations

Exploring Dubrovnik: Beauty, Misery, and Tourist Tips