Dismal Destinations

What the guides say: Commonly referred to as the crown jewel of Athens, this ancient citadel is situated upon a rocky elevation that allows it to observe the city from above. It contains the Parthenon, the Erechtheion, and the Temple of Athena Nike. These 5th-century BC structures represent the highest achievement of Classical Greek architecture. Passing through the Propylaea, the formal gateway, provides the sensation of entering the location where democracy and Western art originated.
What they don’t tell you: The Acropolis in Athens is a rocky hill upon which a great many magnificent but unfortunate events took place. Long ago, before it was a tourist attraction, this stone outcropping was a fortified citadel, a kind of uncozy home for Mycenaean kings. This was followed by a time of great prosperity, during which the Athenians built beautiful structures like the Parthenon, a temple dedicated to the goddess Athena and a building so perfectly proportioned it is said to have no straight lines, a fact that may or may not be true and is, in any case, terribly difficult to prove without a very long ruler and a great deal of time. A devastating fire, caused by the Persians in 480 B.C., left the Acropolis in ruins. The Athenians, being a people who knew that a problem, even one as large as a burnt temple, can often be turned into an opportunity, rebuilt it.
Go for: The crown jewel of Athens, featuring the Parthenon, the Erechtheion, and the Propylaea.
Cost: Approximately €30. Timed-entry tickets should be purchased online.
Best Time: 8:00 AM sharp to beat the heat and the cruise ship crowds.
Dress Code: Wear shoes with excellent grip; the marble stones near the entrance are incredibly slippery from centuries of foot traffic.
Change of Use: The Parthenon was at various times a church, a mosque, and, most unfortunately, a gunpowder storage room, a purpose for which it was decidedly not designed.
UNESCO: Today, the Acropolis is a UNESCO World Heritage site, a place where people from all over the world can observe the ruins of a once-great civilization.
Verdict: Your legs will object to the slick marble ascent and the crowds will test your democratic spirit, but you didn’t come this far just to ignore the world’s most famous architectural apology for a Persian fire.

Parthenon at Acropolis of Athens

Acropolis of Athens

Erechtheion at Acropolis of Athens

Hike up Mount Lycabettus

What the guides say: This is the highest geographical point in Athens, reaching 277 meters above sea level. One may ascend via a winding path or a funicular, which is a cable-operated railway. The summit features the white-washed Chapel of St. George and a deck for observation. It is a preferred location for viewing the Acropolis at night, as the ancient site appears to be an illuminated island surrounded by modern white structures.
What they don’t tell you: According to legend, Mount Lycabettus was created when the goddess Athena, upon receiving some particularly awful news, dropped a rock she had intended for the Acropolis. This limestone hill is now Athens’ highest point, offering a view that, while spectacular, only serves to underscore the city’s vast, sprawling collection of human troubles. There is a funicular that drags people up to the top through a dark tunnel, offering no view whatsoever until the very end. There is a small, whitewashed chapel to Saint George at its summit, a place of quiet devotion in a world of clamor. And there is a theater, an open-air venue where, for a time, people of great talent and even greater misery, like Leonard Cohen, performed their melancholic songs.
Go for: The highest point in Athens for a panoramic view of the city all the way to the Aegean Sea.
Cost: Free to hike; approximately €12 for the funicular (cable car) round-trip, or €9 one-way.
Best Time: Sunset is magical, but go 45 minutes early to secure a spot at the wall.
Photography: Use a zoom lens to capture the Acropolis glowing at night against the dark city backdrop.
Verdict: A mandatory pilgrimage for anyone who wants to see the Acropolis from a position of literal superiority.

Walk up Philopappos Hill

What the guides say: Located southwest of the Acropolis, this park is covered in pine trees and provides a quiet perspective of the urban environment. It is topped by a monument from the 2nd century dedicated to a Roman senator. The hill contains various paths that offer clear views of the Parthenon and is used by local residents for flying kites during Clean Monday or observing the sunset.
What they don’t tell you: Philopappos Hill is named after a man whose life was of such minor importance that his greatest contribution was his death. This man, a Syrian prince and Roman consul, was, for a brief and fortunate time, a benefactor of Athens. After his passing, the Athenians, in a burst of grateful but ultimately futile emotion, erected a magnificent marble monument to him at the summit of the hill. It is now a crumbling ruin. Nonetheless, this hill offers a spectacular view of the Acropolis, which is, in its own way, a reminder of the things that last far longer than any one person’s memory.
Go for: A peaceful wooded park with some of the best unobstructed views of the Parthenon.
Cost: Free.
Photography: This is widely considered the best spot for postcard shots of the Acropolis without crowds in your frame.
Nature: The paths are dirt and gravel; it’s a great spot for a morning jog or a picnic.
Best Time: Late afternoon when the sun hits the west face of the Parthenon.
Verdict: A peaceful, pine-scented refuge where the only cost is a bit of sweat and the reward is a postcard view of the Parthenon.

View from Philopappos Hill

Philopappos Hill

Trudge up Areopagus Hill

What the guides say: Known as Mars Hill, this marble outcrop is situated just below the entrance to the Acropolis. In ancient times, it functioned as the high court of the city. Currently, it is a location where travelers congregate on the rocks to watch the sun descend. The stone steps have been polished to a slippery finish by centuries of human feet, making the act of climbing a task requiring significant caution.
What they don’t tell you: This desolate and rocky outcrop in Athens is a place of singular ill fortune. The hill was the site of the Areopagus, a grim and venerable council that served as the city’s high court for the most unfortunate of crimes: murder, religious blasphemy, and the burning of olive trees. Notably, the war god Ares is said to have been tried here by the other gods for the murder of Poseidon’s son Halirrhothius.
Go for: A rocky outcrop (Mars Hill) perfect for a quick, high-impact view of the Agora and the Acropolis.
Cost: Free.
Apostle Paul: It was also here, on this barren stone, that the Apostle Paul gave an address about the identity of the Unknown God – a phrase that captured the very nature of human ignorance and a desire to understand what cannot be understood. The fact that only a few people were persuaded is a reflection of the unchanging, and often unhelpful, nature of the world.
Photography: Great for lifestyle shots of people sitting on the rocks at dusk.
Safety: Use the metal stairs provided; the rock itself is polished and extremely dangerous to walk on when dry or wet.
Verdict: You will risk a broken ankle on stones polished by centuries of murderers and apostles, all to sit on a slippery rock and watch the sun set over a city that has seen much better – and much worse – days.

Museums of Encased Misery (Archaeology & Artifacts)

Step out of the sun and into these imposing structures to confirm that ancient life was every bit as distressing as the modern age.

Visit the National Archaeological Museum

What the guides say: This is the largest museum in Greece dedicated to archaeology. It contains a vast array of artifacts from the Greek world, ranging from prehistory to late antiquity. Notable items include the golden Mask of Agamemnon, the Antikythera Mechanism – which is the oldest known analog computer – and a bronze statue of Poseidon. It is an essential location for those wishing to understand Greek history.
What they don’t tell you: The National Archaeological Museum is a truly dreadful monument to human woe, housed in a building that looks far more imposing than it has any right to be. It was constructed at the end of the 19th century, and its purpose is to house artifacts that are a testament to the fact that ancient life was, by and large, just as miserable as modern life. You will see statues of youths whose blank stares and rigid postures suggest they were not so much enjoying a happy adolescence as they were enduring a perpetual, marble-encased existential crisis. And then there are the bronze treasures, such as the so-called Mask of Agamemnon. This grim visage is a reminder that even the most powerful of people are not immune to the terrible fate of being turned into a museum exhibit. Another notable object is the bronze statue of a youth from Antikythera, a boy who seems to be in the process of looking for something he has lost. It is a place where every object, from the grandest sarcophagus to the humblest clay pot, whispers of tragedy.
Go for: The largest and most significant collection of ancient Greek artifacts in the world.
Cost: Approximately €12. Timed-entry tickets can be purchased online.
Photography: Don’t miss the Mask of Agamemnon – it’s the Mona Lisa of this museum.
Getting There: It’s a bit of a walk from the main tourist center (Plaka); take the metro to Victoria station.
Verdict: A vast warehouse that proves humans have been searching for their lost keys and a sense of purpose since the Bronze Age; go for the computer from Antikythera, stay for the haunting stares of the statues.

Lament at the Acropolis Museum

What the guides say: This modern structure was built specifically to house artifacts recovered from the Acropolis. It features glass floors that allow visitors to see the excavations of an ancient neighborhood located beneath the building. The top floor, the Parthenon Gallery, is aligned exactly like the original temple, permitting the marbles to be viewed in natural light with a direct view of the Parthenon through the windows.
What they don’t tell you: For many years, the artifacts found on the Acropolis were kept in a small, dusty building on Acropolis Hill, an arrangement which was, to put it mildly, unsatisfactory. And so, a new and much larger museum was constructed nearby and opened in 2009. Inside this glass-encased structure are all the significant findings from the Acropolis, from the everyday objects of ancient lives to the more noteworthy works. The Parthenon Gallery on the top floor is of particular note, as it holds the original sculptures from the Parthenon. They are displayed in the same arrangement as they were on the temple itself, with empty spaces for certain missing pieces that can be counted among the stuff the British stole.
Go for: A stunning modern facility housing every artifact found on the Acropolis rock.
Cost: €20. Tickets can be purchased online or at the door.
Planning: The top floor is aligned exactly with the Parthenon, allowing you to view the marbles in their original orientation.
Excavations: The museum is built over an actual ancient Athenian neighborhood – you can see the excavations through the glass floors.
Photography: Photography is prohibited in many galleries; check the signs carefully.
Verdict: A sleek, glass-bottomed masterpiece that forces you to walk over ancient neighborhoods while staring at the empty spaces left by the British.

Explore the Benaki Museum of Greek Culture

What the guides say: Situated within a neoclassical mansion, this museum chronicles Greek history from the Bronze Age to the early 20th century. The collection includes a diverse range of items, such as gold jewelry, Byzantine icons, and regional clothing. It provides a record of how Greek identity has transitioned over several millennia.
What they don’t tell you: This museum, a vast mansion donated by a man named Antonis Benakis, houses a collection of artifacts, the likes of which would give any person a dreadful shiver. For within its walls, you will find items of a prehistoric, ancient, and Byzantine nature – an unremitting chronicle of a culture’s long and often miserable existence. There are also objects from the Ottoman period and the modern age, proving that even a culture with such a long history is not safe from more recent misfortunes.
Go for: A comprehensive journey through Greek history from antiquity to the formation of the modern state.
Cost: €12.
Best Time: Thursday, as they often have extended hours (until midnight).
Souvenirs: The gift shop is one of the best in the city for high-quality, tasteful souvenirs.
Verdict: A beautiful neoclassical mansion filled with enough gold and Byzantine icons to make you forget the modern world’s problems by replacing them with a few thousand years of Greek historical trauma.

Enter the Museum of Cycladic Art

What the guides say: This museum focuses on the ancient cultures of the Aegean and Cyprus, specifically the minimalist marble figurines of the Cycladic islands. These carvings, which are 5,000 years old, served as a source of inspiration for modern artists like Picasso. The galleries are designed to be quiet and modern, emphasizing the simple forms of these ancient objects.
What they don’t tell you: The Museum of Cycladic Art was established by a couple who, in the 1980s, amassed a collection of very old and very peculiar objects. The collection, which is one of the most significant of its kind in the world, is largely composed of artifacts from the Cycladic culture, a civilization that once flourished on the islands of the Aegean Sea. The most notable artifacts are the figurines, which are made of marble and possess a most unsettling simplicity. They are thin, flat, and have a remarkable lack of distinguishing features, save for a single, long nose on a smooth, faceless head.
Go for: The minimalist, hauntingly beautiful flat-faced marble figurines from the Cyclades.
Cost: €12.
Picasso: These ancient figures (3000–2000 BCE) heavily influenced modern artists like Picasso and Modigliani.
Photography: The lighting in the galleries is designed to highlight the silhouettes of the statues; it’s a minimalist’s dream.
Verdict: A minimalist’s dreamscape filled with faceless marble figurines that look remarkably like modern art.

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Graveyards of Colossal Ambition (Ruins & Monuments)

Contemplate the crumbling foundations of a civilization that thought, quite wrongly, that its grandeur would be permanent.

Gaze upon the Temple of Olympian Zeus

What the guides say: Although this was once the largest temple in Greece, only 15 of the original 104 Corinthian columns remain. Construction began in the 6th century BC but was not completed until the reign of Emperor Hadrian. The scale of the remaining columns is quite large, illustrating the intentions of the ancient rulers who wished to honor the king of the gods.
What they don’t tell you: This monument, dedicated to Zeus, the head of a truly dysfunctional family of gods, was so colossally ambitious that
it took over six centuries to build. And what a sorry end it came to. While it once had over a hundred of its enormous columns, the majority have been reduced to rubble, a fate that awaits all things. Most of the marble from its fallen parts was not left to lie in dignified ruin but was cruelly repurposed for lesser buildings. Only a few columns remain standing. One column, in a final and dramatic act of despair, fell during a storm in 1852, and you can still see its broken pieces lying on the ground. The Temple of Olympian Zeus, then, is a graveyard of a dream, a lesson that no matter how big you build it, time and a storm will always have the last word, and that the only constant in life is change.
Go for: Massive columns that show the sheer scale of what was once the largest temple in Greece.
Cost: €6.
Planning Tip: Much of the site is currently under scaffolding for restoration, so check recent reviews for visibility.
Construction: It took over 600 years to finish, but it was only used for about 100 years before being pillaged.
Photography: Capture the contrast of the towering columns against the modern apartment buildings in the background.
Verdict: It is a €6 reminder that time eventually wins every argument.

Wander through the Ancient Agora

What the guides say: This location was the central marketplace and the site of social and political activity in ancient Athens. It is where Socrates engaged in debate and St. Paul delivered speeches. The site includes the Temple of Hephaestus and the Stoa of Attalos, the latter of which has been reconstructed to serve as a museum. It provides a sense of the daily activities that once occurred in the city.
What they don’t tell you: The Ancient Agora is not a singular building but an entire district that was, for a long time, the very heart of the city’s political, social, and commercial life, which is to say it was the place where all sorts of regrettable and calamitous events occurred. Imagine a place where philosophers like Socrates wandered, and where politicians debated matters of state, often with results that were anything but democratic. It was, in effect, a marketplace for all things: ideas, goods, and the occasional unjust sentence. Today, it is a vast archaeological park, a sprawling landscape of foundations, scattered stones, and the occasional structure that has, against all odds, managed to survive.
Go for: Walking the grounds where Socrates and Plato once debated; visit the incredibly well-preserved Temple of Hephaestus.
Cost: €20. Purchase a timed-entry ticket online.
Temple of Hephaestus: The most notable of these survivors is the Temple of Hephaestus (Map), a building so remarkably preserved that it stands as a testament to the unfortunate truth that not all things built by human hands are fated to crumble entirely.
Reconstruction: The Stoa of Attalos is a full-scale reconstruction of an ancient shopping mall.
Best Time: Early morning when the light filters through the trees.
Verdict: You will wander through the foundations of democracy and find the most intact temple in Greece.

Ancient Agora of Athens

Holy Church of the Holy Apostles of Solakis (10th c.) in Ancient Agora of Athens

Temple of Hephaestus at Ancient Agora of Athens

Temple of Hephaestus at Ancient Agora of Athens2

Explore the Roman Agora

What the guides say: Located near the Plaka neighborhood, this was an expansion of the marketplace during the period of Roman governance. Its most prominent feature is the Tower of the Winds, an octagonal structure that functioned as a sundial, water clock, and weather vane. It is smaller than the Ancient Agora and demonstrates the transition between Greek and Roman architectural styles.
What they don’t tell you: The Roman Agora, or Roman Forum, is a market and meeting place built by a series of Roman emperors, a sort of second serving of the original Ancient Agora’s long and often calamitous run. This agora was built to alleviate the unfortunate congestion of the first, a problem which proves that even in ancient times, too many people trying to do too many things in one place can lead to a great deal of trouble. It was a formal, rectangular space with colonnades and gates, all of which suggest a level of organized commerce and civic life, a pretense to be sure. Inside, you can see the ruins of a public lavatory, a rather factual and unglamorous reminder that even in a place of great ideas and imperial power, life’s more mundane and unpleasant necessities must still be attended to.
Go for: The Tower of the Winds, considered the world’s first meteorological station.
Cost: €10. Timed-entry tickets should be purchased online.
Tower of the Winds: The best-preserved site within the Roman Agora is the Tower of the Winds (Map), a peculiar octagonal structure built as a clock tower in a city that, by its very nature, seemed to have no concern for the passage of time. This marble contraption was equipped with a bronze Triton weathervane, a water clock for the sunless hours, and eight sundials, one for each of the eight principal winds. Each side of the tower featured a carving of a wind god, as if to personify the very chaos the building was designed to measure. Over the years, the tower was used as a church, and then, most unsettlingly, as a place of retreat for whirling dervishes.
Photography: Frame the Tower of the Winds with the Acropolis towering in the background.
Planning Tip: It’s a smaller site; you can see most of it from the fence if you are short on time.
Verdict: A smaller, imperial marketplace featuring a weather-vane tower and ancient public toilets, proving that the Romans were primarily concerned with the two things Greeks ignored: the exact time and efficient plumbing.

Roman Forum of Athens (Roman Agora)

Horologion of Andronikos Cyrrhestes at Roman Forum of Athens (Roman Agora)

Pass beneath Hadrian’s Arch

What the guides say: This monumental gate was constructed in 131 AD to mark the arrival of Emperor Hadrian. It stands over the ancient road connecting the old city to the new Roman district. Inscriptions on the arch distinguish the two areas: one side claims the area is the city of Theseus, while the other side claims it belongs to Hadrian.
What they don’t tell you: This monument was built by the Athenians to honor a Roman Emperor named Hadrian. On one side, facing the old city, the stone declares, “This is Athens, the ancient city of Theseus.” But on the other side, facing the emperor’s shiny new district, the inscription reads with a chilling finality, “This is the city of Hadrian, and not of Theseus.” It is a testament to a long-forgotten territorial dispute between an ancient legend and a Roman emperor.
Go for: A symbolic gate that once separated the City of Theseus (Old Athens) from the City of Hadrian (New Athens).
Cost: Free (located on the sidewalk).
Photography: Position yourself so you can see the Acropolis through the archway.
Details: The inscriptions on either side of the arch literally claim ownership of the city for Theseus or Hadrian.
Safety: It’s right next to a busy road; watch for traffic while trying to get the perfect angle.
Verdict: A monumental stone “Keep Out” sign.

Visit Hadrian’s Library

What the guides say: Established by Emperor Hadrian in 132 AD, this was a cultural complex containing rooms for music and lectures in addition to books. The remains of the entrance and its columns are located near Monastiraki Square. In its original state, it was a large, enclosed space with a central pool, signifying the intellectual status of Athens during the Roman Empire.
What they don’t tell you: Emperor Hadrian, a man who clearly hadn’t learned the simple lesson that all things turn to dust, built this enormous complex to house scrolls and foster philosophical discussion. All that remains now are the foundations and a few imposing columns, a solemn lesson that even a fortress built of knowledge is vulnerable to the same misfortune as a rickety houseboat or a seaside shack. You can peer into the ruins and contemplate the countless volumes that are now, for all intents and purposes, gone.
Go for: The ruins of the largest building created by the Roman Emperor Hadrian in Athens.
Cost: €10. Purchase your timed-entry ticket online.
Original Use: This wasn’t just a library; it had music rooms, lecture halls, and a theater.
Best Time: Late afternoon when the sun hits the remaining high walls.
Location: Located right next to Monastiraki Square, making it an easy stop-by site.
Verdict: It is a beautiful, scholarly ruin located conveniently next to a gyro shop.

Enter the Kerameikos

What the guides say: This was the potters’ quarter and the primary cemetery of ancient Athens. It is situated near the ancient city walls and contains the Sacred Gate and the Dipylon Gate. It is a quiet, green area where one can observe ancient tombstones, such as the Bull of Dionysios. The museum on the site contains various examples of Athenian pottery and funeral art.
What they don’t tell you: The name Kerameikos comes from the Greek word for pottery, a trade in which people, in a perfectly circular and depressing twist of fate, made the very urns and vases that would mark their final, grim resting places. These potters lived in a bustling, ordinary neighborhood bordered by a wall. On the other side of the wall is the largest cemetery in all of Athens. This dreadful and fascinating graveyard is filled with elaborate stone monuments depicting scenes of farewell. And let us not forget the plague pit, a dreadful, haphazard mass grave where ritual was ignored and the victims of a terrible epidemic were unceremoniously dumped.
Go for: The ancient cemetery of Athens and the site of the famous Dipylon Gate.
Cost: €10. Admission tickets are available on site or online.
The Name: This was the potters’ quarter (where we get the word ceramics) and the city’s main burial ground.
Best Time: It is one of the least crowded sites; great for a quiet walk away from the tourist hub.
Photography: Look for the marble bull statue – it’s an iconic funerary monument.
Verdict: It is the most dignified place in Athens to contemplate your own inevitable conclusion.

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Rituals of Absurdity (Spectacles & Public Spaces)

Observe the choreographed movements of men in pom-poms or the accidental catastrophes of royal gardening.

Watch the Changing of the Guards as you try to figure out if it is a serious spectacle or an elaborate joke

What the guides say: At the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, the Evzones (Presidential Guard) perform a choreographed ceremony every hour. They wear traditional kilts and shoes with pom-poms, moving in a slow, high-kicking manner to honor Greek independence. While this occurs hourly, a more elaborate version involving a band takes place on Sunday mornings.
What they don’t tell you: The Changing of the Guards at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier is where an elite presidential guard performs a ritual so serious, so synchronized, and so curious that even a tax auditor would pause to watch. The guards wear uniforms that are a cross between a history book and a fashion dare, with kilts (each with 400 folds), and shoes with black pom-poms. And when one guard replaces another, a process unfolds that involves slow-motion marching, exaggerated high kicks, and a level of seriousness usually reserved for funerals. A version of the ceremony takes place every hour, but every Sunday, there is a full, substantially more elaborate ceremony. It is beautiful, haunting, and ever so slightly absurd – a bit like life itself.
Go for: Watching the Evzones in their traditional pleated kilts and pom-pom shoes.
Cost: Free.
Best Time: Every hour on the dot; however, the Grand Change with the full band is Sunday at 11:00 AM.
Photography: Stand at the front of the crowd at Syntagma Square to capture the high-stepping slow-motion march.
Etiquette: Do not mimic or touch the guards; they are active military and must remain perfectly still.
Verdict: It is the only time you will see 400 pleats and giant pom-poms moving in perfect unison.

Changing of the Guards at Syntagma Square

Traverse the vast Athens National Garden

What the guides say: This 38-acre park in the center of the city was originally the Queen’s Garden. It contains a variety of paths, ponds for ducks, and a small zoo. It provides a shaded environment to escape the city’s heat. The park also contains the Zappeion Hall, a neoclassical building used for official government business.
What they don’t tell you: This garden was built as a private, fenced-off kingdom for a German queen named Amalia. She, being a person with more whims than common sense, decided to import hundreds of exotic plants from all over the world, a plan which, as any botanist or anyone with a modicum of foresight could have predicted, went dreadfully wrong. In the 1920s, while strolling through these very grounds, King Alexander was, in an absurd and pitiful twist of fate, bitten by a monkey. He died of sepsis, and this single, ridiculous event led to a series of political catastrophes that ultimately resulted in a great and miserable war. It is a clear cautionary tale of what happens when you decide to take a walk in a garden.
Go for: A lush, shaded retreat from the concrete heat of the city.
Cost: Free.
Best Time: Midday when the sun is too hot for visiting the unshaded ruins.
Verdict: A shaded, botanical maze where you can hide from the sun and the ducks, provided you avoid the monkeys.

Run a lap around the Panathenaic Stadium

What the guides say: This is the only stadium in the world constructed entirely of marble. It is located on the site of an ancient stadium and was rebuilt for the first modern Olympic Games in 1896. One may walk on the track or climb the marble stands to see the Acropolis. Its horseshoe shape and white stone are distinct architectural features.
What they don’t tell you: The Panathenaic Stadium is a large, horseshoe-shaped hole in the ground, to put it plainly. A hole, you see, that is made entirely of marble, a stone that is cold and unyielding. It was first built for athletic games that no one remembers, then left to crumble into a bleak, forgotten ruin. Later, in a particularly cruel turn of events, it was rebuilt for the first of the modern Olympic Games, becoming a stage for fleeting moments of glory.
Go for: The only stadium in the world built entirely of white marble; home to the first modern Olympics.
Cost: €12.
Audioguide: Your ticket includes an audio guide; don’t miss the tunnel that athletes used to enter the stadium.
Photography: Climb to the top of the stands for a symmetrical shot of the track with the city and Acropolis in the distance.
History: It was originally built in 330 BCE for the Panathenaic Games and rebuilt for the 1896 Olympics.
Verdict: It is the only place on earth where you can run a lap in the footsteps of 1896 and feel like a very slow Olympian.

Panathenaic Stadium

Panathenaic Stadium Museum

Panathenaic Stadium

Enter the Prison of Socrates

What the guides say: Located on Philopappos Hill, these rooms carved into the stone are traditionally identified as the place where Socrates was imprisoned. While the historical accuracy of this specific location is a matter of debate, the structure is an example of ancient rock-cut architecture situated in a wooded area.
What they don’t tell you: An unverified and most likely untrue story has been attached to a peculiar set of rock-cut chambers on the slopes of Filopappou Hill. Tourists are told with a certain certainty that this is the very place where the philosopher Socrates was held before his untimely demise by poison. The truth, as it so often is, is far more mundane and less dramatic. Archaeological evidence and sensible deduction suggest this dwelling was nothing more than an ancient house. The real prison was likely a public building near the Ancient Agora.
Go for: Seeing the cave-like rooms carved into the hill where tradition says the philosopher was held.
Cost: Free.
Location: It’s located on the path up Philopappos Hill; it’s an easy 5-minute detour.
History: Historians debate whether this was actually his prison, but it was certainly used as a secure storage area during WWII.
Photography: The iron grates over the stone rooms make for a very atmospheric, dark photo.
Verdict: A set of rocky caves that probably weren’t a prison, but provide a suitably dark and damp place to pretend you are contemplating your final hemlock cocktail while actually just hiding from the heat.

Wander through the Anafiotika

What the guides say: This small neighborhood on the slopes of the Acropolis resembles a village from the Cycladic islands. It was constructed in the 19th century by workers from the island of Anafi. It is characterized by narrow paths, white houses with blue doors, and bougainvillea, providing a contrast to the busy metropolis nearby.
What they don’t tell you: Anafiotika is a small and therefore particularly dismal neighborhood tucked beneath the looming and indifferent gaze of the Acropolis. It was built, with a great deal of haste and a profound lack of official permission, by builders and masons who had come from the remote Cycladic island of Anafi to work on a palace for King Otto. These men were in need of a place to live, and they built their homes illegally, on the unforgiving slopes of the Acropolis, in a style that reminded them of the home they had been forced to leave. The result is a cluster of whitewashed houses, small and cubic, with narrow, winding, nameless streets that lead to dead ends and private terraces.
Go for: A hidden neighborhood that looks exactly like a Greek island village (whitewashed houses, blue doors).
Cost: Free.
Photography: Look for the narrow staircases overflowing with cats and flower pots.
Origin: It was built by workers from the island of Anafi who moved to Athens to help build the King’s palace.
Responsible Tourism: Be respectful; these are private homes. Keep your voice down and stay on the paths.
Verdict: It is a tiny, illegal island of whitewashed tranquility hidden on a cliffside, where you will definitely get lost and likely be judged by a local cat.

Labyrinths of Sensory Overload (Markets & Neighborhoods)

Navigate these busy districts where the smell of hanging carcasses and the noise of loud music offer a temporary, if pungent, distraction.

Browse the Varvakeios Central Market

What the guides say: This market is the center of the Athenian food trade. The building is divided into sections for the sale of meat and fish, where vendors announce their prices loudly. Nearby stalls sell olives, cheese, and spices. It is a location that provides a direct look at the city’s culinary habits and daily commerce.
What they don’t tell you: While a pleasant trip to the grocery store may seem like a simple and agreeable activity, the Varvakeios Central Market is proof that even the purchase of food can be a chaotic and overwhelming affair. It is not a place for the faint of heart, or for those who prefer their sustenance in neat, sanitary packages. This is a covered market that has been in continuous operation since 1886, and it is a loud, bustling, and often very pungent marketplace. You will find a meat market with hanging carcasses, a slippery fish market, and all around, you will find mountains of olives, spices, and nuts, an endless parade of edible items.
Go for: The raw, bustling energy of Athens’ main meat, fish, and produce market.
Cost: Free to browse.
Best Time: Early morning (8:00 AM – 11:00 AM) to see the most action. Closed on Sundays.
Dress Code: Wear closed-toe shoes; the floors can be wet and slippery (especially in the fish section).
Tripe: This is where you can find the most authentic Patsas (tripe soup), a famous Athenian hangover cure.
Verdict: A loud, pungent, and slippery gauntlet of hanging carcasses and shouting vendors that proves food is a serious and sometimes bloody business; wear closed-toe shoes and leave your delicate sensibilities at the door.

Bargain at the Monastiraki Flea Market

What the guides say: This area contains a mixture of shops for tourists and stalls for authentic antiques. While the main thoroughfare features souvenirs, the side streets near Avissinias Square contain old furniture and books. On Sundays, the number of vendors increases, creating a crowded environment suitable for searching for specific historical items.
What they don’t tell you: The Monastiraki Flea Market is a daily, chaotic, and often overwhelming gathering of shops and street vendors near Monastiraki Square. While the market is open every day, it is on Sunday that it reaches its most feverish and baffling state. On this day, a special section of the market, a place known as Avissinias Square, becomes a true and proper flea market, where vendors, like a particularly shifty set of characters, display a variety of goods that range from genuine antiques to what one can only describe as peculiar rubbish. Here, you can find anything from discarded furniture and old books to military surplus and, one suspects, items that have been fished out of the garbage. It is a place where one must be vigilant, for while you might find a genuine treasure, you are far more likely to find a souvenir of a dubious origin or, in the most unfortunate of cases, lose your wallet to a particularly skilled pickpocket.
Go for: Hunting for antiques, vinyl records, leather sandals, and kitschy souvenirs.
Cost: Free to browse.
Best Time: Sunday morning is the real flea market when people lay out blankets with random treasures.
Bargain Hunting: Be prepared to haggle, especially on the side streets.
Photography: The intersection of Ermou and the square offers a great chaos shot of the metro, the mosque, and the Acropolis.
Verdict: A daily explosion of kitsch and genuine rubbish where Sunday mornings turn the streets into a chaotic treasure hunt; it is the best place in Athens to buy something you didn’t know you needed and will almost certainly regret packing.

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Swallow down a meal on the steps of Plaka