Dear fellow traveler, if you’re looking for yet another delightful “Top 10 Things to do in Yogyakarta list,” you have opened the wrong page. For starters, you will notice – if you have any talent for counting at all – that this list does not contain ten items. A list of ten would suggest a sense of completeness and order that simply does not exist in this wretched world. These recommendations are culled from my own harrowing experiences, though I have included a few locations I have not yet visited, solely because I have heard whispers of their greatness and feel a desperate, perhaps foolish, urge to see them for myself before something goes horribly wrong.
I must caution you: while the tone of this guide is somewhat grim, the logistical information contained within is – most distressingly – entirely accurate. I have meticulously recorded prices and logistical advice with a level of accuracy that is frankly exhausting. Every detail was correct at the time this document was published, though in a world as unstable as ours, accurate is a word that should always be whispered with a note of caution. You may use this information to plan your journey with terrifying efficiency, though why you would want to arrive at your destination any sooner is a mystery that I have no desire to solve.
It has been my task to document a great many miserable locales in various parts of the world, and I must confess that the city of Yogyakarta, in Indonesia, presents a particularly vexing problem. It is a place filled with so much art, culture, and what a person might naively call charm that it can lure even the most cautious individual into a false sense of security. One might believe, mistakenly, that a city so rich in tradition and populated by seemingly kind people could not possibly be a setting for calamity. As you read on, I will be forced to describe a number of activities and places that have, with a distinct lack of foresight, been labeled the best things to do in Yogyakarta. The phrase “the best” is, of course, a highly subjective and often inaccurate descriptor, especially when used by those who have not experienced the tragic consequences of navigating a crowded market where one’s personal space is no longer one’s own. It is with a heavy heart and a clear-eyed view of the inevitable calamities that await you that I will now present this guide, in the hope that you, fellow traveler, will be prepared for the many, many miseries that lie ahead.
If this is your first stop in Indonesia, you are advised to beware the chaos. Here’s Your Travel Guide to Indonesia.
Best Things to See and Do in Yogyakarta (And Why They Might Disappoint You)
In any given metropolis, there is a list of Best Things to See and Do, an optimistic and misleading phrase that suggests these activities will be entirely delightful and without peril. Such a list, however, is merely a catalog of places where one can witness something curious, or perhaps even perform a curious deed oneself. One should approach this list with caution and a healthy dose of suspicion, as no one can truly promise that what you see and do will be anything but an experience of dreadful consequence.
While I endeavor to furnish you with the costs of regular foreign adult admission for the various locales of interest, you must understand that the proprietors of these places will almost certainly offer lesser prices for domestic travellers, children, students, the elderly, and other groups in order to make a simple transaction more complicated.
Rituals of the Regal and the Rotting (Royal Sites & Palaces)
These locations offer a chance to witness the “mournful lament” of power and the watery graves of royal leisure.
Infiltrate the Kraton (Sultan’s Palace)
- What the guides say: The Kraton is the official residence of the Sultan of Yogyakarta and functions as a museum of Javanese culture. The complex is composed of pavilions and carvings designed according to specific philosophical principles. It is a location where Abdi Dalem (palace servants) may be observed in traditional clothing while maintaining royal traditions and performing dances.
- What they don’t tell you: This is a place that some call a palace, but which I would describe as a sprawling collection of buildings filled with objects of great significance and an equal amount of dust. It is the residence of a Sultan, a title which, to the uninitiated, may sound like a position of great joy and authority. In reality, a Sultan’s life, as is true for anyone in a position of power, is a ceaseless dance of duty and dread. Here, in these hallowed halls, one can witness a variety of performances – dances that seem to tell a story of both triumph and tragedy, and music that, to a sensitive ear, sounds like the mournful lament of a great many people who have lost something important. It is a place that reminds us that even in the most regal of settings, sorrow is never far from the throne.
- Go for: The beating heart of Javanese culture and the active residence of the Sultan.
- Cost: Approximately 25,000 IDR for international tourists.
- Best Time: 10:00 AM to 11:00 AM to catch daily cultural performances (Gamelan or dance) in the inner courtyard. Most of the palace closes by 1:00 PM or 2:00 PM.
- Alignment: The palace is aligned in a straight line with Mount Merapi and the Indian Ocean.
- Photography: Capture the Abdi Dalem (palace guards) in their traditional batik uniforms and kris daggers.
- Verdict: It is a somber, dusty dance of royal duty that you must attend. Go early to witness the Abdi Dalem perform rituals of a vanishing world; it’s the only way to understand the heavy heart of Java.
Confront the remains of Taman Sari (Water Palace)
- What the guides say: A former royal garden, Taman Sari is characterized by its blue-tinged bathing pools and a network of subterranean tunnels. This site was constructed for the purposes of rest and defense. It contains the Sumur Gumuling, a circular underground mosque featuring a series of intersecting staircases of interest to those with cameras.
- What they don’t tell you: This former royal pleasure garden is now a crumbling ruin of submerged passages and decaying bathing pools. It is a testament to a time when a Sultan sought solace in a labyrinth of water and secret tunnels, perhaps to escape the very public unpleasantness that is a Sultan’s life. One can wander through the damp corridors and imagine the secret rendezvous, the whispered plots, and the desperate attempts to find a moment of peace. It is a place that feels less like a palace and more like a crypt for lost leisure, a watery grave for good times.
- Go for: The enchanting ruins of a former royal garden and bathing complex.
- Cost: 25,000 IDR.
- Mosque: If you can find it, don’t miss the Sumur Gumuling, an underground circular mosque located a short walk through the local village.
- Best Time: Early morning (9:00 AM) to get photos of the pools without crowds of tourists.
- Photography: The central staircase in the underground mosque is the money shot – use a wide lens to capture the intersecting levels.
- Verdict: It is a crumbling, watery labyrinth that feels like a crypt for the Sultan’s social life; however, the subterranean mosque is a geometric marvel that justifies every damp step.
Journey against your will to the Museum Wahanarata (Palace Carriage Museum)
- What the guides say: This facility, located near the Kraton, stores the horse-drawn carriages utilized by the Sultans. Each vehicle is assigned a specific name and used for either daily transport or formal ceremonies. The carriages are decorated with gold leaf and represent the intersection of Javanese royalty and colonial-era manufacturing.
- What they don’t tell you: A museum, by definition, is a place where objects are kept, generally for the purpose of boring people who would rather be doing literally anything else. This particular collection is a dusty, creaking testament to royal mobility. You will see carriages, heavy and ornate, which were once used to transport sultans, their kin, and presumably, their various and sundry anxieties. Many bear magnificent names like Kyai Jolodoro (a women’s carriage) or Kyai Jongwiyat (a war chariot), but now they sit, forever motionless, gathering an air of melancholy that clings to them like a fine, tropical mold. They are the grand remnants of grand journeys that will never be taken again, which, I suppose, is a metaphor for most things in life.
- Go for: A collection of ornate, golden royal carriages used by the Sultans of Yogyakarta.
- Cost: 30,000 IDR.
- Royal Connection: Some carriages were gifts from European royalty and are still used for royal weddings.
- Best Time: Mid-day when you need a break from the sun; the museum is well-sheltered.
- Verdict: A shiny, golden collection of vehicles destined to never move again; it is a brief, air-conditioned reprieve from the sun that makes royal stagnation look surprisingly high-end.
Unearth the tragic history of Benteng Vredeburg (Fort Vredeburg)
- What the guides say: This is a former Dutch fortification situated at the terminus of Malioboro Street. Originally intended to monitor the activities within the Sultan’s palace, it has been converted into a museum focused on the independence movement. The interior contains dioramas – small, static scenes – that document the historical struggle against foreign governance.
- What they don’t tell you: This old Dutch fort, whose name ironically means Fort of Peace, is a grim reminder of a long and bloody colonial history. Its walls hold stories of violence and subjugation, a silent monument to the unfulfilled promise of peace, a particularly bitter irony for a person who knows the true meaning of the word.
- Go for: A colonial-era fort turned museum detailing Indonesia’s struggle for independence.
- Cost: 100,000 IDR.
- Location: It’s located right at the end of Malioboro Street, making it a perfect transition point.
- Best Time: Late afternoon for a walk along the ramparts.
- Photography: The symmetrical white gate and the surrounding moat provide a clean, colonial aesthetic for photos.
- Verdict: A colonial fortress that wears its irony in its name. It is a necessary, sobering walk through the dioramas of struggle that makes your modern freedom feel significantly more expensive.
Monuments to Human Futility (Temples & Absurdities)
Observe these magnificent piles of stone and concrete, each a testament to how easily a grand dream can become a miserable temple or a disheartening spectacle.
Witness the melancholic grandeur of Borobudur
- What the guides say: This 9th-century structure is the largest Buddhist temple in existence and is recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site. It consists of nine stacked platforms decorated with 2,672 relief panels and 504 statues of Buddha. Many individuals gather here at dawn to observe the sun rising over the surrounding stone stupas and vegetation.
- What they don’t tell you: The Borobudur Temple, a great and sprawling stone structure, is often described as a marvel of human ingenuity. And in a certain, technical sense, this is correct. But what the travel brochures fail to mention is that this magnificent edifice is also a monument to human futility. Row upon row of silent, contemplative Buddhas sit atop a hill, their serene expressions a stark contrast to the endless stream of tourists who scurry about, taking photographs and chattering incessantly. The temple, with its endless carved reliefs and staircases, is a perfect example, a grand and beautiful effort to achieve a state of enlightenment that, for the average visitor, is as attainable as a well-made cheese soufflé. A solitary adult must pay Rp 455,000 for temple access.
- Go for: The world’s largest Buddhist temple and a UNESCO World Heritage site.
- Cost: From 455,000 IDR to climb to the top (requires advance booking). Combination tickets with Borobudur are also available.
- New Tourist Attraction: The temple lay hidden for centuries under layers of volcanic ash and jungle growth until 1814.
- Best Time: Sunrise (via Punthuk Setumbu hill) or the very first entry slot of the day.
- Photography: Use the bell-shaped stupas to frame the distant Mount Merapi in the background.
- Getting There: Since this temple is inconveniently located outside the city, a tour is advisable. Here are a few highly rated options, for what it’s worth:
- Half day Borobudur temple Climb Up Tour
- Borobudur Temple Climb To The Top & Prambanan Temple – 1 day tour
- Yogyakarta: Borobudur temple (Climb Up) and Prambanan Temple
- Borobudur Sunrise from setumbu Hill , Merapi Volcano & Prambanan Full Day Tour
- Yogyakarta Car Rental with Driver for Daily and Multi-Day Tours
*** Make sure to verify if the tour cost includes admission fees.
- Verdict: It is a massive stone quest for enlightenment that usually ends in a sweat-drenched photo op. You will pay a king’s ransom and fight a sea of tourists, but the view of the stupas against the mist is a core memory you cannot afford to skip.
Wander the hushed corridors of Prambanan
- What the guides say: A 9th-century Hindu temple complex, Prambanan is dedicated to the deities Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva. The buildings are characterized by tall, pointed architecture. The stone surfaces are carved with scenes from the Ramayana, a narrative that is also performed as a ballet on a nearby stage during the evening hours.
- What they don’t tell you: Prambanan is a collection of tall, pointy spires that look as though they might topple over at any moment. These temples, dedicated to the Hindu gods of destruction, creation, and preservation, are a testament to the fragility of things. Many of them have been damaged by earthquakes, leaving behind piles of rubble that serve as a grim reminder of nature’s indifference. You will wander among these ruins, marveling at the craftsmanship while secretly worrying that the next tremor will be the one to finally bring the whole place down.
- Go for: The massive, towering spires of the largest Hindu temple site in Indonesia.
- Cost: From 400,000 IDR (Combination tickets with Borobudur are available).
- Ballet: Get a ticket and stay for the Ramayana Ballet performed at the outdoor theater nearby, usually on Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday.
- Superlative: The tallest temple (Shiva) stands at 47 meters high.
- Best Time: Sunset – the stone turns a beautiful orange-pink color as the sun goes down.
- Photography: Shoot from the park area further back to capture all three main temples in one wide panoramic shot.
- Since these piles of stone are inconveniently situated outside the city, one is advised to enlist the services of a tour. Here are a few highly-rated options to consider:
- Prambanan Temple & Ramayana Ballet Show or Alternative Evening
- Borobudur Temple Climb To The Top & Prambanan Temple – 1 day tour
- Yogyakarta: Borobudur temple (Climb Up) and Prambanan Temple
- Borobudur Sunrise from setumbu Hill , Merapi Volcano & Prambanan Full Day Tour
- Yogyakarta Car Rental with Driver for Daily and Multi-Day Tours
*** Make sure to verify if the tour cost includes admission fees.
- Verdict: These jagged, volcanic teeth reaching for the sky are a spectacular reminder that nature eventually wins.
Ponder the absurdity of Bikit Rhema (Chicken Church)
- What the guides say: Located on a hill near Borobudur, this building was designed to resemble a dove, though it is widely noted to resemble a chicken. It functions as a multi-faith prayer center. The crown of the structure serves as an observation point for viewing the surrounding forest and volcanic geography.
- What they don’t tell you: This structure, perched on a hill, is an architectural absurdity, a concrete fowl of colossal, and frankly, disturbing proportions. It was meant to be a dove, you see, a symbol of peace and hope, but the intentions of mankind are almost always dashed against the rocks of reality. What you get instead is a brooding, half-finished edifice that most assuredly looks like a very large, slightly melancholic chicken. It stands abandoned, or rather, partially repurposed, like a half-eaten sandwich left on a park bench. One climbs its interior to observe the view, which is, to be fair, quite lovely, but one must first pass through the metaphorical, and occasionally literal, digestive tract of a large, confused bird. A truly disheartening spectacle of good intentions gone cluckingly wrong. The giant chicken can be seen from the top of Borobudur, and Borobudur can be seen from the mouth of the giant chicken.
- Go for: An architectural oddity – a massive prayer house shaped like a bird in the middle of the jungle.
- Cost: Approximately 25,000 IDR.
- Location: It’s a short drive from Borobudur
- Snack: The entrance fee usually includes a free traditional snack (cassava).
- Best Time: Early morning to see the mist rolling over the Borobudur valley from the crown deck.
- Photography: Head to the top deck (the crown) for a 360-degree view of the surrounding forests.
- Verdict: A giant concrete bird in the jungle is exactly the kind of madness your trip requires. It is a kitschy, earnest, and undeniably impressive testament to a dream that went slightly off-script.
Ponder perpetual agreement at Plaosan Temple
- What the guides say: Plaosan is a twin temple complex that incorporates both Hindu and Buddhist architectural elements. Historical records indicate it was built by a Hindu monarch for his Buddhist spouse. It is situated among rice fields and is generally less populated by visitors than the larger temple complexes nearby.
- What they don’t tell you: This temple is a stone monument to a deeply unsettling concept: marital harmony. Built by a Hindu king for his Buddhist queen, it stands as a baffling symbol of interfaith tolerance. It is, essentially, two temples built as one, a vast and stone-cold declaration that love can, in fact, overcome theological disagreement. One is left to wonder if the king and queen were truly happy, or merely trying to make a point that has, through the centuries, become entirely too heavy and made of rock.
- Go for: A beautiful twin temple site that blends Hindu and Buddhist architectural styles.
- Cost: Approximately 50,000 IDR.
- Planning Tip: Much quieter than Prambanan; it’s a great place to escape the tourist crowds.
- Fun Fact: Legend says it was built by a Hindu king for his Buddhist queen as a symbol of their love.
- Best Time: Late afternoon when the sunlight hits the intricate carvings.
- Photography Tip: Capture the temples reflecting in the surrounding rice paddies for a quintessential Java landscape shot.
- Verdict: Skip the crowds of the major temples and come here for the serene reflection of twin towers in the rice paddies; it’s the most peaceful marital dispute you’ll ever witness.
Take deep breaths at Mendut Buddhist Monastery and Temple
- What the guides say: This temple predates Borobudur and contains three large stone statues of Buddha and Bodhisattvas. Adjacent to the site is a monastery featuring gardens and a banyan tree, providing an environment suitable for the study of ancient art or quiet contemplation.
- What they don’t tell you: Mendut, a statuesque temple, houses three immense stone figures, Buddhas of such calm and proportion that they seem entirely uninterested in the hurried, sweating people who come to gaze upon them. It is solemn, dignified, and altogether too tranquil.
- Go for: The oldest of the three temples in the Borobudur area and its giant 3-meter Buddha statues.
- Cost: Approximately 20,000 IDR.
- Gardens: Visit the monastery next door to see the beautiful gardens and perhaps hear monks chanting.
- Alignment: The three temples (Mendut, Pawon, Borobudur) are located in a perfectly straight line.
- Best Time: Morning, before the tour buses from Borobudur arrive.
- Photography: The interior of Mendut is dark; use a high ISO to capture the massive, serene stone Buddha.
- Verdict: A small, dignified sanctuary where the massive stone Buddhas seem much calmer than you are. It’s a mandatory moment of Zen that provides the spiritual context the larger temples often lack.
Make a somewhat mandatory stop at Pawon Temple
- What the guides say: Pawon is a small temple positioned exactly halfway between Borobudur and Mendut. Its name is linked to the word for shrine or kitchen. Despite its modest dimensions, the volcanic stone masonry is well-preserved and aligns geometrically with the two larger Buddhist sites in the vicinity.
- What they don’t tell you: Pawon is a small, unassuming temple that stands dutifully between Mendut and the truly colossal Borobudur, a mere stepping stone on a path of ritual significance. It is the architectural equivalent of a nervous cough between two grand pronouncements. To see these three temples is not merely to appreciate ancient craftsmanship, but to participate in a ritual walk – a thing only slightly less mandatory, and far less convenient, than doing one’s chores.
- Go for: A small, elegant temple that served as a halfway point between Mendut and Borobudur.
- Cost: Included in the Mendut ticket (Approximately 20,000 IDR).
- Planning Tip: It’s a very quick stop – 15 minutes is enough to see the whole structure.
- Best Time: Mid-morning.
- Photography: Look for the Kalpataru (tree of life) carvings on the exterior walls; they are incredibly well-preserved.
- Verdict: It’s the architectural commuter stop of the temple trail, essential for completing the ritual line between Mendut and Borobudur.
Labyrinths of Consumerism and Shadows (Culture & Markets)
Venture into these chaotic sectors where you are likely to lose your wallet, your time, and perhaps your sense of reality.
Submerge yourself in the chaos of Jl. Malioboro (Malioboro Street)
- What the guides say: This is a primary commercial street in Yogyakarta. During daylight hours, vendors sell batik and various handicrafts. In the evening, the area becomes a site for lesehan – dining on floor mats – where local food is consumed while street musicians provide auditory accompaniment.
- What they don’t tell you: There are certain streets in this world that, from a distance, appear to be a vibrant, bustling thoroughfare, a place where one might find joy, or at the very least, a decent pastry. Malioboro Street, with its cacophony of becak bells and the insistent cries of hawkers, is one such street. But do not be fooled. Beneath this colorful veneer lies a veritable labyrinth of consumerism, a place where one might enter with a full wallet and a hopeful heart, only to emerge hours later with a handful of useless trinkets, a stomachache from questionable street food, and the distinct feeling that one’s time – and indeed, one’s life – has been spent unwisely.
- Go for: The ultimate street food, souvenir shopping, and chaotic energy of Yogyakarta.
- Cost: Free.
- Barter: Practice your bargaining skills; usually, you can get items for 50-70% of the initial asking price.
- Name: The street is named after the British Duke of Marlborough.
- Best Time: After 7:00 PM, when the Lesehan (floor seating) food stalls open and street musicians perform.
- Photography: Use a long exposure at night to capture the light trails of motorbikes and becaks.
- Verdict: A neon-lit gauntlet of trinkets and street food that will leave you exhausted and penniless. It is the chaotic, beating heart of the city – hate the crowd, love the energy.
Witness Wayang Kulit (A Shadow Play)
- What the guides say: This is a traditional performance involving puppets carved from leather that cast shadows onto a screen. A Dalang (puppet master) narrates stories from the Mahabharata or Ramayana while accompanied by a gamelan orchestra. These performances are lengthy and frequently continue until a very late hour.
- What they don’t tell you: Wayang is an art form that is, in essence, a performance of shadows. A person might call it beautiful, but I would describe it as a parade of silhouettes, a constant reminder that what you see is not always what you get. The puppets, carved from buffalo hide, are manipulated by a single, mysterious figure, a master puppeteer who, much like a particularly cunning politician, controls the movements of all the characters while remaining largely unseen. After all, all the world’s a stage, and all the men and women merely players. The stories they tell are filled with heroes and villains, battles and betrayals. The flickering light from the oil lamp only serves to make the shadows more ominous, proving that even in the most artistic of pursuits, a sense of foreboding is never far off.
- Go for: A traditional Javanese storytelling art using leather puppets and shadows.
- Cost: Approximately 20,000 – 25,000 IDR depending on the venue.
- Where to Go: Here are two options:
- The Sonobudoyo Museum (Website | Map) (near the Kraton) holds shortened 2-hour performances most nights at 8:00 PM. Traditional shows can last all night long – from 9:00 PM until dawn.
- The Kraton (Website | Map) generally hosts performances starting around 10 AM on Saturdays, but check the performance schedule for updates. Should your visit land on a different day, you will be subjected to some entirely different, yet equally peculiar, performance.
- Photography: Go behind the screen to photograph the Dalang (puppeteer) and the fire/light source for a more dynamic shot.
- Verdict: Watch a puppet master control silhouettes like a cunning politician. It’s a beautiful, flickering reminder that reality is just a projection.
Witness a Gamelan Orchestra
Website | Performance Schedule | Map
- What the guides say: The Gamelan is a traditional musical ensemble from Java, consisting of percussion instruments such as gongs and metallophones. The music is characterized by layered, rhythmic melodies and is an essential component of local ceremonies and dance.
- What they don’t tell you: This traditional ensemble of percussive instruments produces a sound that is both enchanting and profoundly unsettling. It is a strange and beautiful music, but one that seems to have a secret life of its own, a rhythm that seems to be in conversation with ghosts, its notes drifting through the humid air like a half-remembered melody from a tragic dream.
- Go for: The hypnotic, metallic sounds of Java’s traditional percussion ensemble.
- Cost: Often free with Kraton or museum entrance.
- Best Time: It seems that these performances take place on Tuesdays, starting around 10 AM in the Kraton. Should your visit land on a different day, you will be subjected to some entirely different, yet equally peculiar, performance.
- Spirits: Gamelan is played as a spiritual offering and is believed to have spirits living within the instruments.
- Photography: Focus on the intricate carvings on the wooden frames of the bronze gongs.
- Verdict: Hypnotic percussion that sounds like a conversation with ghosts. It’s enchanting, unsettling, and likely to haunt your dreams.
Lurk in the shadows of a batik workshop
- What the guides say: Yogyakarta is a primary center for the production of batik, a textile art. In a workshop setting, one uses a canting tool to apply wax to fabric before the dyeing process. This is a practical method for understanding the technical skills required to produce these UNESCO-recognized textiles.
- What they don’t tell you: Sometime during your exploration of Yogyakarta, you will be approached by a seemingly kind and helpful stranger who will offer to show you the “real” Yogyakarta. Your destination will be a situation best described as a sales trap with an unfortunate odor of hot wax. The art of batik is a tedious, painstaking process of applying wax and dye to cloth. A person with an appreciation for the peculiar might watch the artists at work, their hands moving with a repetitive, almost trance-like rhythm. It is a hypnotic and unsettling sight, a reminder of the quiet madness required to create something of beauty. The truly distressing part, however, is when you are told you can not leave until you make a purchase – a polite but firm suggestion that is in fact a cruel and inescapable demand.
- Go for: An experience that is hopefully once in a lifetime.
- Cost: Approximately 50,000 – 200,000 IDR, depending on the size of the fabric.
- UNESCO: UNESCO recognized Indonesian Batik as a Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity.
- Best Time: Morning, so your fabric has time to dry by the afternoon.
- Photography: Capture the Canting (wax pen) as it applies hot wax to the white cloth.
- Verdict: A high-stakes trap involving hot wax and repetitive labor. You aren’t just learning an art; you’re buying your way out of a building you didn’t want to visit in the first place.
Peruse the antiquities of the Pasar Tradisional Beringharjo (Beringharjo Market)
- What the guides say: This is the city’s oldest market, containing a high density of vendors selling batik, spices, and traditional herbs known as jamu. It is a location used for the observation of daily economic transactions and the practice of bartering, which is a method of negotiating prices.
- What they don’t tell you: This is a marketplace, but it is more of a labyrinth, a maze of stalls and vendors and smells that will either delight or disorient you. You can find everything here, from spices you have never heard of to clothes that you will never wear. It is a place of such frantic energy that it can leave a person feeling dizzy and a little overwhelmed. It is a place where you can get lost for hours, and then, if you are particularly unlucky, you will find yourself in the section selling pickled fish, and you will wish you had never come at all.
- Go for: The best prices on batik, spices, and traditional snacks in the city.
- Cost: Free.
- Navigation: The batik section is on the first floor, while the second floor is great for vintage items and spices.
- History: It has been the center of trade in Yogyakarta since 1758.
- Best Time: 8:00 AM to 10:00 AM, before it gets too crowded and hot.
- Photography: The spice section in the back is a kaleidoscope of colors and textures – great for close-up shots.
- Verdict: A dizzying maze of spices, vintage finds, and the faint scent of pickled fish.
Ponder the emptiness of the Alun-Alun Kidul (Southern Square)
- What the guides say: This grassy area behind the palace is used in the evenings for the operation of illuminated pedal cars. It is the site of Masangin, an activity where participants attempt to walk blindfolded between two banyan trees, an endeavor that often results in the participant walking in the wrong direction.
- What they don’t tell you: This is a place where people, for reasons that escape all logic, willingly subject themselves to a peculiar form of torture. The centerpiece of this square is the act of walking blindfolded between two large banyan trees. It is said that if you can do so, your wish will come true. However, a more accurate description would be that you are simply a spectacle for the amusement of others, bumping into people, stumbling over uneven ground, and generally making a fool of yourself.
- Go for: The Masangin challenge – trying to walk blindfolded between two giant banyan trees.
- Cost: Free; approximately 5,000 IDR to rent a blindfold.
- Pedal Cars: Rent one of the neon-lit Odong-odong (pedal cars) to circle the square.
- Best Time: After 7:00 PM, when the square transforms into a neon playground.
- Photography: Use a slow shutter speed to capture the glowing neon lights of the pedal cars.
- Verdict: Rent a blindfold to prove your heart is pure, but mostly just to provide free entertainment for locals as you stumble into a tree.
Consume the peculiar cuisine
- What the guides say: The local food is characterized by a combination of sweet and savory flavors. Notable items include Gudeg, which is jackfruit stewed in coconut milk, and Bakpia, a type of pastry. The lesehan style of dining is a common social practice for consuming these meals on the sidewalk.
- What they don’t tell you: The local culinary scene offers a chance to consume dishes that are both unsettling and bizarre. Take, for example, gudeg, a dish made from young jackfruit that has been boiled for a very long time, until it is a sweet and strangely mushy concoction. It is a food that, in its texture and flavor, seems to defy all natural order.
- Go for: Gudeg (sweet jackfruit stew), Kopi Joss (charcoal coffee), and Bakpia (sweet mung bean pastry).
- Cost: Approximately 15,000 – 40,000 IDR per meal.
- Where to Try: Try Gudeg Yu Djum – it’s a pretty popular spot for gudeg.
- How It’s Made: Kopi Joss involves dropping a red-hot piece of burning charcoal directly into your coffee cup.
- Best Time: Morning for Gudeg; late night for Kopi Joss near the train station.
- Photography: The steam and sizzle of the charcoal entering the coffee makes for a great short video or action shot.
- Verdict: Challenge your palate with mushy jackfruit and charcoal-infused coffee. It defies the natural order, yet you’ll probably go back for seconds.
The Abyss and the Ash (Nature & Disaster)
Contemplate the terrifying interior of the earth and the explosive nature of sacred mountains.
Absorb the desperate prayers at Mount Merapi
- What the guides say: This is a highly active volcano located near the city. Its terrain, altered by historical eruptions, can be explored via Jeep. The volcano is a constant physical presence in the region, serving as a reminder of geological forces and the resilience of the nearby population.
- What they don’t tell you: The people of Yogyakarta refer to Mount Merapi as a sacred mountain, a source of life and fertility. They speak of its majestic beauty and the spiritual connection they have with its unpredictable nature. But to a person who is incapable of ignoring reality, the truth is far more obvious. Mount Merapi is a grim reminder that a beautiful exterior often conceals a terrifying and explosive interior. Its calm and serene slopes can, without warning, erupt in a fiery display of destruction, burying villages and shattering lives.
- Go for: An adrenaline-pumping Jeep lava tour on the slopes of one of the world’s most active volcanoes.
- Cost: Approximately 450,000 – 800,000 IDR per Jeep (up to 4 people).
- Dress Code: Wear clothes you don’t mind getting dusty or wet (if you do the river splash).
- Name: The name Merapi translates to Mountain of Fire.
- Best Time: 4:30 AM departure for a sunrise Jeep tour – the views are incomparable.
- Photography: Ask your Jeep driver to stop at the Alien Rock or the Bunker for dramatic volcanic landscape shots.
- Getting There: Since one cannot merely wander there, a tour is advisable. Here are a few highly-rated purveyors of said tours:
- Merapi Volcano Jeep’s Ride
- Borobudur Sunrise from setumbu Hill , Merapi Volcano & Prambanan Full Day Tour
- Yogyakarta Car Rental with Driver for Daily and Multi-Day Tours
*** Make sure to verify if the tour cost includes all fees.
- Verdict: A bumpy reminder that nature is terrifying.
Absorb the eerie stillness of the Museum Gunungapi Merapi (Merapi Volcano Museum)
- What the guides say: This pyramid-shaped building is an educational center regarding volcanic activity. It contains a scale model of Mount Merapi that simulates eruptions and displays items recovered from lava flows. It provides information on the science of volcanology.
- What they don’t tell you: This museum is dedicated to the various eruptions of the volcano. Its exhibits contain artifacts that were unearthed after being covered in ash, a collection of broken and charred possessions. It is a place of profound sadness, a memorial to things that were left behind, a testament to the fact that even in an instant, everything you own can be turned to ash.
- Go for: Educational exhibits and a giant 3D model of the volcano’s eruptions.
- Cost: 10,000 IDR, with an additional charge of 10,000 IDR to watch a film.
- Architecture: The museum is shaped like a pyramid/volcano itself.
- Best Time: Weekday mornings. This is a great stop to do before the Jeep tour to understand the power of the mountain.
- Photography: The building itself has very futuristic lines that look great against the backdrop of the actual volcano.
- Verdict: An eerie palate cleanser of charred possessions and ash. It’s a somber, futuristic pyramid dedicated to the things we leave behind.
Descend into the Jomblang Cave
- What the guides say: This is a vertical sinkhole located in the Gunungkidul region. It requires the use of ropes to descend into a subterranean tunnel. At a specific time of day, sunlight enters through a hole in the roof of the Grubug Cave section, illuminating the vegetation below.
- What they don’t tell you: A person with a shred of self-preservation would never willingly be lowered into a vertical, lightless chasm. But here, you are strapped into a harness and lowered into the abyss, only to find a subterranean forest and a small ray of light. It is a brief moment of unsettling beauty, a promise that even in the deepest darkness, a glint of hope remains – a promise that, in my experience, is rarely kept.
- Go for: Descending 60 meters into a vertical sinkhole to see the Light of Heaven.
- Cost: 500,000 IDR (includes equipment and lunch).
- Practicalities: You are lowered and pulled back up manually by a team of local villagers using ropes.
- Best Time: Limited to about 80 people per day – you must book in advance and arrive by 9:00 AM. 11:30 AM to 12:30 PM is the only window when the sun is directly overhead to create the light beams.
- Photography: Bring a waterproof bag for your camera; the cave is very muddy and damp.
- Getting There: Try one of these tours:
- Verdict: Drop 60 meters into a muddy abyss for a single ray of hope. It’s a damp, terrifying descent that actually manages to deliver the goods.
Hike through the rice terraces to Candi Selogriyo
- What the guides say: An 8th-century Hindu temple situated on the slopes of Mount Sumbing. Reaching the temple requires a walk through a series of green rice terraces. It is a smaller, quieter site that provides a combination of historical architecture and rural geography.
- What they don’t tell you: You are promised rice terraces, which are, let us be honest, merely a series of wet steps cut into a hill. Then, you must hike – a terrible word involving exertion and the unseemly production of sweat – to a small, remote Hindu temple. Candi Selogriyo, whose name means stone house, is indeed a house of stone, perched precariously high up, having escaped a landslide only to be found by the persistently curious. You climb for the view, which is splendid, but one must reflect that the arduous ascent is merely a preamble to the equally tedious descent, and all to see a small, ancient building which, though charming, has only been made magnificent by the sheer difficulty of reaching it. This is a common and thoroughly disappointing trick of the travel industry.
- Go for: A secluded Hindu temple reached by a stunning trek through emerald-green rice terraces.
- Cost: Approximately 50,000 IDR paid in the village at the bottom of the hike.
- Dress Code: Wear comfortable walking shoes for the 2km trek.
- Reconstruction: The temple was recently dismantled and rebuilt stone-by-stone to prevent it from sliding down the hill.
- Best Time: Early morning to catch the dew on the rice paddies.
- Photography: The path to the temple is arguably more photogenic than the temple itself – keep your camera ready for the tiered terraces.
- Verdict: An arduous, sweat-soaked hike through wet green steps. The view is elite, but the Stone House is a disapointing reward for surviving the climb.
Go on a nighttime becak ride
- What the guides say: A becak is a three-wheeled cycle rickshaw. Utilizing this vehicle at night is a slow method of travel that allows for the observation of the city’s lights and evening atmosphere at a pace significantly slower than that of a motorized vehicle.
- What they don’t tell you: The becak, or pedicab, is a slow and vulnerable form of transport. To ride one at night is to be carried slowly through the city’s quiet, dimly lit backstreets, a disquieting journey through a world that seems to be sleeping but is, in fact, merely waiting.
- Go for: A slow-paced, breezy tour of the city streets in a traditional three-wheeled cycle rickshaw.
- Cost: Approximately 20,000–50,000 IDR (negotiable).
- Options: Choose a Becak Kayuh (pedal) for the classic experience or a Becak Motor (motorized) if you want to go faster.
- “Free” Tour: Many becak drivers are local historians and will tell you stories about the buildings you pass.
- Best Time: 8:00 PM when the air is cooler and the city lights are on.
- Photography: Set your camera to a Panning shot (slow shutter speed) to blur the background while keeping the becak in focus.
- Verdict: A slow, vulnerable crawl through dimly lit streets. It’s the most poetic way to feel slightly exposed while moving at the speed of a turtle.
And so, we come to the end of this catalog of activities in Yogyakarta. You have been told, in no uncertain terms, that the best things to do in this seemingly charming city are simply the most popular ways to find yourself in a state of mild peril. A sensible person, having absorbed this information, would likely decide to stay home, far from the unpredictable whims of a tropical climate. But if you are not a sensible person – and the very fact that you are considering a trip to Yogyakarta suggests you may not be – then I can only offer this final piece of advice: take with you a great deal of patience for the crowds of other people who have, like you, fallen for the myth of a picturesque and trouble-free vacation.
Further Reading
If one is in search of a less dreadful and more pleasant perspective on Yogyakarta, a number of additional resources exist. These are, of course, presented with the understanding that such information is often a mere sugarcoating on a very bitter pill, and should be consumed with a healthy dose of suspicion.
- Visiting Jogja (The Official Tourism Portal of Yogyakarta)
- Indonesia Travel – Special Region of Yogyakarta
- Indonesia Travel – Central Java
- “13 best things to do in Yogyakarta” by Lonely Planet
- “Yogyakarta – The ultimate list of what to do!” from Passport Nomads
- “Yogyakarta, Indonesia Is Where Javanese Culture Begins” from the New York Times (paywall)
